My cat likes to bite and it's leaving me with marks on my hand. I try and use the water bottle and he still remains defiant. You can tell he just wants to play and I've done everything in the book to get him to bite other things. Like placing a toy on his stomach so he knows that's the object to bite. I raise my voice cause a book said higher pitch communicates inappropriate play.
I even went to the extreme of inserting my knuckle in his mouth (when he bit it) so that he gagged because I was told it was a good negative reinforcement and that's how cats learn. He knows not to bite the finger but will instead go after another body part.
What do I do?
Answers:
Does he 1- IMMEDIATELY start to bite when he plays?
Or does he 2- start to bite after he has been playing for a while?? If 2 is the answer then he, like some cats, is getting overstimulated (it's a "cat thing") and he WILL then start to bite. My Big Bad Baby Twinkle gets overstimulated after she's been playing with me for a while and she tries to bite-- when she does that, I STOP, I say absolutely NOTHING, but I WALK AWAY from her, calmly and I go do something else - END of playtime.
How old is he? IMHO, anything below 2 yrs is still a "kitten", as far as playing is concerned.
Buy one of those "wand" toys and stand above him and let him play with the wand toy. Use positive vocal reinforcement (high pitched "Good boy!!", a few times) when he plays with the TOY.
That might settle him down-- AT LEAST it will reduce many instances of biting, because you will know when to take yourself away from the situation.
Squirting water does not have any effect on him (it doesn;t mkae him defiant as much as it just is being over-ruled by his overstimulation), so I think you can shelve that idea, as well as the idea of gagging him.
What you need to do is Re-direct his "aggression" (which is basically his overstimulation) into proper channels, by playing with him at a distance, with a wand toy.
Putting a toy on his stomach might mean absolutely nothing to him once he gets overstimulated.
Enjoy your kitty -- let your friends know that he will start to bite if they start to play with him, and you will be giving your cat his space, and your friends fair warning.
tell him "He's being bad and go lay his *** down before he get hurt."lol
Is caticide a legitimate answer?
But seriously, I think the knuckle technique is right, but you have to be patient.
Actually, to a cat, a higher-pitched voice communicates that you want to interact. A lower-pitched voice communicates displeasure or aggression. Talk to your cat in both voices and see which one gets him to perk his ears up and which one makes him lay his ears back.
When he bites, stop playing (freeze like a statue if you have to), and tell him "No" in a low-pitched voice. Then don't start playing again until he lets go. That communicates to him that biting is against the rules, and he doesn't get to play if he breaks them.
Another thing is to make sure he's playing with objects (toys) instead of your hands and feet so he's not tempted to bite you. Hope that helps!
I was told just the other day that there is an old wives tale that you should put about 4 or 5 pennies in an empty coke can and tape up the hole. When any pet does anything wrong you shake the can. They say that the first couple of times you may have to throw the can at the animal but after that the sound of the can will scare them and they will stop what they are doing. I have not gotten to try this yet but I was about to. So if you find out if it works before I do please let me know. Hope it helps.
we have the issue with our 3 year old. our 5 year old still does it from time to time, but i was always raised with outdoor cats, and you roughed them up and they would bite and kick and all that stuff. i continued that with our two cats that we brought indoors... i didn't want them to forget about being outside or loose some of their playfull skills. our youngest loves to pounce and bite...he bites ankles and arms... he hasn't been too rough on me because i'm use to it, but for my husband, he can't stand the bitting... water does not do anything for our youngest cat. we've found that blowing in the cats face when he does something wrong can help... but you might also want to try putting something on your hand that they don't like (there's things they don't like and i can't think of them now) and put it on your hand, that way, they will know that when they bite you, it's a bad taste and that should stop them...
Aattura has given you some excellent advice and suggestions.
Cats being independent natured creatures actually respond best to positive reinforcement. Any kind of physical punishment or negative reinforcement just makes them resentful and can make them afraid of their owner.
Like Aattura, I believe that as your cat is still so young he is simply getting a little over excited when he plays and doesn't realise how much his biting hurts. It's best if you play with him using toys attached to a wand stick or a long piece of string,then he can be as rough as he likes with those without you getting hurt. If you continue to play with him using your hands, he probably thinks you enjoy the game as much as he does. Next time he bites or scratches you, gently scruff his neck and say "no" in a firm voice. If he persists, then walk away and refuse to continue playing until he has calmed down. He will quickly learn that biting is unacceptable behaviour.
Is he an indoor only cat? At his age he has a lot of energy that needs to be burnt off. I don't know if adopting a second cat is a viable option for you, but it could be a solution. Your cat would have a playmate to help burn off his energy and he'd learn first hand from another cat just how much biting can hurt. My female cat used to be very feisty until I adopted another cat for her to play with. I've posted a link on how to introduce a new cat to an existing one in case you decide to try this option.
http://www.tulsa-animalshelter.org/tips/...
If taking on another cat is not an option for you, here's another link giving advice and suggestions on how to keep an indoor cat actively amused and happy.
http://www.celiahaddon.co.uk/pet%20probl...
Good luck.
Thursday, May 7, 2009
How do you remove the smell of cat urine froma wood floor?
this nasty smell came with the apartment and i need HELP!!
Answers:
try vinegar, plain white or call a vet to see what they use, after all they deal with urine daily!
Rip it out...the stench never goes away.
Use straight vinegar and plenty of it. Just pour it out of the bottle on and arround the area. I have used it many times in rental property and even on my car. Vinegar works many wonders with smell. Do not use it for jacuzzi tub though.
Believe it nor not but spray a lot of Febreese on it. When my cat used the bathroom in the house, that is what I used. It worked. I would spray a bunch on their, let it dry then do it again. Good Luck!!
Have you tried Nature's Miracle? It's kind of expensive, but very effective. You can buy it at Petsmart. Depending on how big your space is, you might need a lot. Just douse the floor.
Answers:
try vinegar, plain white or call a vet to see what they use, after all they deal with urine daily!
Rip it out...the stench never goes away.
Use straight vinegar and plenty of it. Just pour it out of the bottle on and arround the area. I have used it many times in rental property and even on my car. Vinegar works many wonders with smell. Do not use it for jacuzzi tub though.
Believe it nor not but spray a lot of Febreese on it. When my cat used the bathroom in the house, that is what I used. It worked. I would spray a bunch on their, let it dry then do it again. Good Luck!!
Have you tried Nature's Miracle? It's kind of expensive, but very effective. You can buy it at Petsmart. Depending on how big your space is, you might need a lot. Just douse the floor.
How do you remove skunk spray from a cat?
Answers:
The easiest thing to do is take it to a groomer and have them give it a 'de-skunk' treatment.
BTW the tomato juice thing really does work - I used to use it all the time on my mothers dog.
Look very closely. It's not a cat!
I believe your vet or groomer should have special shampoo for this.
You could also try bathing the cat in tomato sauce (have fun with that!).
Unfortunately, you really can't. You just have to let it wear off. If your cat handles baths well, you can actually lessen the stench with tomato juice, but it won't take it away completely. Give your cat a bath every couple days with regular shampoo (after the tomato juice bath) and the smell should dissipate in a couple weeks. It doesn't do any good to keep bathing with tomato juice, however - that's a one-time thing. You need to wash off the tomato poduct really well, too, or else the cat will try to clean it off itself, and the high acidity from the tomatoes can make them sick.
Best of luck to you and your kitty!
Hello..Ya can try Tomato Juice..just soak the cat with it..they say it helps..but that nothing gets it all out..Yikes %26 P.U LOL !!! Take Care :)
I too have heard about bathing the animal in tomato products, juice, etc.
Check with your vet. He will have a shampoo you can use, maybe even a spray.. good luck..
Give him a bath with tomato sauce. I know it sounds crazy but it works. Follow by rinsing with vinegar. (be sure not to get the vinegar in the cat's eyes)
Hello Kim, if your cat had a "skunk" encounter, first put him in a cardboard carrier so your pet doesn't run all over the house. Then, you can either have the vet hospital do the bathing, or you can bathe him yourself.
Wear old clothes that you wouldn't mind throwing away when you do this. You will also need old towels to take to the battlefield. First bathe your cat in his regular shampoo, then in tomato juice. You may also use a de-skunk solution in place of tomato juice. These solutions are available at pet stores. Afterwards, follow up with another sudsing using his regular shampoo; then dry him up using a hair dryer, or keep him in a container until his coat dries up.
Finally, remember to take a bath yourself. (^_^)
lady shower some time ago my dog was spray too and the vet said whash him with lady baby shower
Wash the pet outside so the skunk spray does not contaminate your house. Bathe pets that have been sprayed in a mixture of 1 quart of 3% hydrogen peroxide (from drug store), 1/4 cup of baking soda (sodium bicarbonate) and a teaspoon of liquid detergent. Make sure the solution soaks through the hair onto the skin. Rinse the animal thoroughly with water after 5 minutes of scrubbing. Repeat if necessary. The hydrogen peroxide mixture must be used immediately after mixing. This mixture may bleach the pet's hair.
Tomato juice DOES NOT WORK to neutralize or deodorize skunk spray.
How do you remove cat uring smell from carpet?
How do you remove the smell of cat urine from carpet without removing the carpet?
Answers:
When I had a sick cat, she would pee all over the house. You can remove the urine smell and stains by using a home remedy of 2 cups peroxide, 2 tsp baking soda and a couple drops of liquid dish detergent. Saturate the area -- it will evaporate on its own. The urine smell may be stronger while wet but will go away as the liquid dries. Depending on how bad the urine is, you may have to treat it a second time. Works great on cement floors also!
I use Nature's Miracle (available in "For Cats Only" formula at a pet store). It's a liquid, and you dump it on and make sure you *totally* saturate the area. Then let it dry on its own. It will still smell like cat pee until it all dries. If it dries and you still notice an odor, you may need to treat the carpet pad. Good luck!
you can buy a spray at the vet. Beside this you have to clean the carpet with water and soap but then put some orange arome oil on it. The cats dislike the smell of oranges or lemons,
Try this stuff called 'Nature's Miracle'. You can find it at most pet stores. Spray it where the cat urinated after cleaning...it's a neutral scent to them and they don't feel the need to mark their territory.
I'd get your cat checked out and make sure it;s not sick...sometimes this is a sign of a UTI. If it's not sick, it might just be very territorial and will feel threatened if it smells unfamiliar scents. You have to train them, really. My cat used to do this for a good 4-5 months when I first got her, but then she just kind of grew out of it. Make sure the litterbox is clean and that it's always in the same spot. If you catch it in the act of urinating on the carpet, try raising your voice and saying "NO!" or squirt with a water bottle. (NEVER hit! You'll make your cat scared of you). Hope that helps!
Lick it dry!
There is virtually no way to remove the smell other than time. And if you try to stop your cat from peeing I think he'll resent you in the long run. How would you feel if you weren't aloud to pee?
Cats will pee outside the litter box if the litter box is dirty, so make sure you're scooping the littler box everyday and once a week, clean the litter box itself with soap and water and put new litter in. Also, sometimes cats are very picky about the litter itself. I use Arm and Hammer and my three cats like it. Also, the problem could be medical, like a urinary track infection. The animal associates the pain with the litter box itself and will stay away from it. Go to a different vet and rule out a urinary track infection first. Good luck!
There's a product called Woolite Pet Stain and Odor remover that I've used for dog messes, but I'm not sure how well it would work on cat urine. Also, look for a spray called Urine Gone (yes, that's really what it's called). Supposedly, it will eradicate the smell and stain of any kind of urine.
Make sure your kitty's litterbox is clean. Did you recently change his litter or move his litterbox to a different location? Cats are pretty picky about things like that. Think about things in your kitty's life that have changed, and see if you can find a connection.
Answers:
When I had a sick cat, she would pee all over the house. You can remove the urine smell and stains by using a home remedy of 2 cups peroxide, 2 tsp baking soda and a couple drops of liquid dish detergent. Saturate the area -- it will evaporate on its own. The urine smell may be stronger while wet but will go away as the liquid dries. Depending on how bad the urine is, you may have to treat it a second time. Works great on cement floors also!
I use Nature's Miracle (available in "For Cats Only" formula at a pet store). It's a liquid, and you dump it on and make sure you *totally* saturate the area. Then let it dry on its own. It will still smell like cat pee until it all dries. If it dries and you still notice an odor, you may need to treat the carpet pad. Good luck!
you can buy a spray at the vet. Beside this you have to clean the carpet with water and soap but then put some orange arome oil on it. The cats dislike the smell of oranges or lemons,
Try this stuff called 'Nature's Miracle'. You can find it at most pet stores. Spray it where the cat urinated after cleaning...it's a neutral scent to them and they don't feel the need to mark their territory.
I'd get your cat checked out and make sure it;s not sick...sometimes this is a sign of a UTI. If it's not sick, it might just be very territorial and will feel threatened if it smells unfamiliar scents. You have to train them, really. My cat used to do this for a good 4-5 months when I first got her, but then she just kind of grew out of it. Make sure the litterbox is clean and that it's always in the same spot. If you catch it in the act of urinating on the carpet, try raising your voice and saying "NO!" or squirt with a water bottle. (NEVER hit! You'll make your cat scared of you). Hope that helps!
Lick it dry!
There is virtually no way to remove the smell other than time. And if you try to stop your cat from peeing I think he'll resent you in the long run. How would you feel if you weren't aloud to pee?
Cats will pee outside the litter box if the litter box is dirty, so make sure you're scooping the littler box everyday and once a week, clean the litter box itself with soap and water and put new litter in. Also, sometimes cats are very picky about the litter itself. I use Arm and Hammer and my three cats like it. Also, the problem could be medical, like a urinary track infection. The animal associates the pain with the litter box itself and will stay away from it. Go to a different vet and rule out a urinary track infection first. Good luck!
There's a product called Woolite Pet Stain and Odor remover that I've used for dog messes, but I'm not sure how well it would work on cat urine. Also, look for a spray called Urine Gone (yes, that's really what it's called). Supposedly, it will eradicate the smell and stain of any kind of urine.
Make sure your kitty's litterbox is clean. Did you recently change his litter or move his litterbox to a different location? Cats are pretty picky about things like that. Think about things in your kitty's life that have changed, and see if you can find a connection.
How do you remove a cyst from a cat's tail?
My cat had a cyst removed from her tail two months ago, but it's back. I've drained it twice, but it won't go away. Does anyone have any suggestions on how to remove it permantenly?
Answers:
Take your cat to the vet it needs to take antibiotics and anything else your vet can recommend.
I would call the vet, or go back to the vet and see what's up. I wouldn't do anything on my own. I'm not even sure I'd drain it on my own, unless the vet told you how to.
Hey Natalie,
You should take the cat back to the vet's office, since the regrowth needs to be looked at.
Normally, after removal these cysts don't regrow, but it's not unheard of. You also want to check the status of the growth, just to be sure that it's not cancerous (since growth can be a sign of this).
I included a link with information to the different kinds of skin conditions/lumps and bumps that are commonly found in cats, if you're up to doing some reading.
http://www.peteducation.com/article.cfm?...
take it to the vet
go to the vet see what they can do but if it is no problem leave it alone
the vet can do this for you but it will cost a lot, so i wouldn't worry about it, when my dog had a cyst i took it to the vet and had it drained and it came back and i went back to the vet and they said its okay if she has a cyst, it won't hurt her none, so i wouldn't worry about it that much.
Since the vet removed it, she needs to be taken back and be examined by the Dr. Maybe it is something that will come back, but you need to go back and find out what is going on. If it is to be removed permanently, it is for the vet to do,not you, and good luck.
Please go to a vet. That's why they exist, to take care of medical problems in animals. Not only that they have anesthetics and it's safer.
do not do it yourself, your not a vet, take the cat to the vet and say it keeps coming back! if you do it yourself then you can hurt the cat
Answers:
Take your cat to the vet it needs to take antibiotics and anything else your vet can recommend.
I would call the vet, or go back to the vet and see what's up. I wouldn't do anything on my own. I'm not even sure I'd drain it on my own, unless the vet told you how to.
Hey Natalie,
You should take the cat back to the vet's office, since the regrowth needs to be looked at.
Normally, after removal these cysts don't regrow, but it's not unheard of. You also want to check the status of the growth, just to be sure that it's not cancerous (since growth can be a sign of this).
I included a link with information to the different kinds of skin conditions/lumps and bumps that are commonly found in cats, if you're up to doing some reading.
http://www.peteducation.com/article.cfm?...
take it to the vet
go to the vet see what they can do but if it is no problem leave it alone
the vet can do this for you but it will cost a lot, so i wouldn't worry about it, when my dog had a cyst i took it to the vet and had it drained and it came back and i went back to the vet and they said its okay if she has a cyst, it won't hurt her none, so i wouldn't worry about it that much.
Since the vet removed it, she needs to be taken back and be examined by the Dr. Maybe it is something that will come back, but you need to go back and find out what is going on. If it is to be removed permanently, it is for the vet to do,not you, and good luck.
Please go to a vet. That's why they exist, to take care of medical problems in animals. Not only that they have anesthetics and it's safer.
do not do it yourself, your not a vet, take the cat to the vet and say it keeps coming back! if you do it yourself then you can hurt the cat
How do you pick homes for kittens?
i have 5 kittens ready to place and have already received 11 responses about them. does anyone have any advice on picking good homes? do you just go by vibe? how do i know they will be safe? do i just close my eyes and let them go?
Answers:
well first of all you make sure that you are giving them to adults and i mean adults not young guys and girls or even young adults and what i mean by that is not anyone in the 20 year old bracket because i have sen what some young ones have done to kittens before, you can call the shelter and ask them for their advice as they are good at finding homes for kittens, etc.you have no way of knowing if they are safe once they leave your home, why not try to find family members, cousins, aunts , uncles etc to see if they will each take one or two in my case i got two kittens a couple of weeks ago from the same litter, that way by keeping them in the family you will know that they are safe.you might even be able to keep one yourself. think about your options first before you give them away. take a few days to really think about it, whats another few days. good luck.
If they are family and friends you know and trust, you can consider them. but if they are just strangers and you get a bad gut feeling, then don't consider them. You can always ask the people if they have other pets, then you'll know they have experience. And make sure they are somewhat financially stable, since kittens need more attention even when it comes to buying and spending on them.
use your judgment and see how they interact with the kittens there is not a whole lot you can do once they leave the house I know I have to find a home for two.
KEEP THE KITTENS...LOVE THE KITTENS...FEED AND CARE FOR THE KITTENS...DONT EAT THE KITTENS! DONT ABUSE THE KITTENS! REMEMBER...LOVE THE KITTENS!
THIS IS WHAT I DO...
I LOVE THE KITTENS!
i would have the people come over and see them and see how they act around them. see if they handel them right and everything then u can puck the best families.
i would pick the 5 who want them inside!
To make sure they are serious and will not torture your cats, have a home inspection. View the bed, food, water, toys, etc. that they will use for your cat! And have trust along with a home visit a month within when you give them the kitten!
Beware of those who use kittens as pitt dog fighting bait or "bunchers" who will sell for lab experiments or dissection as the will pose as nice pet-loving folks. The kittens lives are in your hands. Ask potential adoptor for name, address, phone numbers, number of adults %26 children in the home, kids ages, current %26 former pets names, ages, where they are now, if they were spayed/neutered %26 if dead, what they died from. MOST IMPORTANT - get their veterinarian's name %26 call them for a reference. You want to see a record of responsible care, such as neutering %26 maintaining regular vaccines. Ask the potential adoptor if pet will be inside only or outside (outside is dangerous). Charge a fee to deter the "bunchers". If you get bad vibes, don't give them the animal. Don't be afraid to tell someone "no", you can always say you changed your mind %26 decided to keep them. If you have amama cat, please spay her PRONTO. Humane Society %26 SPCA can recommend low-cost spay/neuter programs if you can't afford a regular vet. I prefer to place kittens with people who have had long-lived indoor cats - those tend to be the best homes - cats climb, scratch, shed, etc so its best if people understand that %26 don't just get something because its "cute", because they may dump it when reality %26 the responsibility kick in.
Answers:
well first of all you make sure that you are giving them to adults and i mean adults not young guys and girls or even young adults and what i mean by that is not anyone in the 20 year old bracket because i have sen what some young ones have done to kittens before, you can call the shelter and ask them for their advice as they are good at finding homes for kittens, etc.you have no way of knowing if they are safe once they leave your home, why not try to find family members, cousins, aunts , uncles etc to see if they will each take one or two in my case i got two kittens a couple of weeks ago from the same litter, that way by keeping them in the family you will know that they are safe.you might even be able to keep one yourself. think about your options first before you give them away. take a few days to really think about it, whats another few days. good luck.
If they are family and friends you know and trust, you can consider them. but if they are just strangers and you get a bad gut feeling, then don't consider them. You can always ask the people if they have other pets, then you'll know they have experience. And make sure they are somewhat financially stable, since kittens need more attention even when it comes to buying and spending on them.
use your judgment and see how they interact with the kittens there is not a whole lot you can do once they leave the house I know I have to find a home for two.
KEEP THE KITTENS...LOVE THE KITTENS...FEED AND CARE FOR THE KITTENS...DONT EAT THE KITTENS! DONT ABUSE THE KITTENS! REMEMBER...LOVE THE KITTENS!
THIS IS WHAT I DO...
I LOVE THE KITTENS!
i would have the people come over and see them and see how they act around them. see if they handel them right and everything then u can puck the best families.
i would pick the 5 who want them inside!
To make sure they are serious and will not torture your cats, have a home inspection. View the bed, food, water, toys, etc. that they will use for your cat! And have trust along with a home visit a month within when you give them the kitten!
Beware of those who use kittens as pitt dog fighting bait or "bunchers" who will sell for lab experiments or dissection as the will pose as nice pet-loving folks. The kittens lives are in your hands. Ask potential adoptor for name, address, phone numbers, number of adults %26 children in the home, kids ages, current %26 former pets names, ages, where they are now, if they were spayed/neutered %26 if dead, what they died from. MOST IMPORTANT - get their veterinarian's name %26 call them for a reference. You want to see a record of responsible care, such as neutering %26 maintaining regular vaccines. Ask the potential adoptor if pet will be inside only or outside (outside is dangerous). Charge a fee to deter the "bunchers". If you get bad vibes, don't give them the animal. Don't be afraid to tell someone "no", you can always say you changed your mind %26 decided to keep them. If you have amama cat, please spay her PRONTO. Humane Society %26 SPCA can recommend low-cost spay/neuter programs if you can't afford a regular vet. I prefer to place kittens with people who have had long-lived indoor cats - those tend to be the best homes - cats climb, scratch, shed, etc so its best if people understand that %26 don't just get something because its "cute", because they may dump it when reality %26 the responsibility kick in.
How do you measure a cat's age in relation to human age. I know dogs are 7 years to our 1 year,what about cats
My cat Percy died yesterday he was 17 years old.
Answers:
That 7-1 ratio is a myth.
There's no easy way to work it out by approximation. Many factors are involved and cats and dogs age at different rates during the early human years of their lives.
Someone asked the Queen to send a birthday greeting to their 20yo cat as they felt it was the equivalent of the usual 100yo birthday wish from the Queen.
My kitty was a few weeks shy of her 17th birthday. She had to be put to sleep yesterday.
I was told on Friday last that she had cancer of the intestines and that it was too advanced to treat her effectively.
We had the weekend and May Day holiday together but her temperament changed and I had to let her go.
I miss her so much.
It won't let me include a weblink to a cat age calculator... keep getting an error message
i think its the same 7 years to our one!!
they age differently based on how old they are...
http://www.terzovia.com/src/topics.php?r...
Dog an cat years are not an exact science. I've seen dogs that made it to 17, and cats that made it to 21. The cat, by the way, was on ly sick for a week before it died; before that, it was extremely healthy.
So, basically, there is no direct correlation between cat and dog years and people years. Many people have lived to be 90, and a couple have lived to be 120. Similarly for cats, most can live for between 14 and 20 years, but the oldest lived to be 36!
Based on the typical data available, your cat most likely lived to its full potential, regardless of whatever that might be in "Cat Years".
I saw something at the vets and I think for cats it is 5 years for each human year although I was always brought up with the traditional 7 human years for each cat year
Even at 5 to 1 that would make Percy 85 so a good age.
The Dog Age 7-1 is a myth. I get a weekly E-mail from www.dogage.com that has great stuff and you can measure your Dog's age with a proven method.
They have a Sister site also at www.catage.com also, where you can tabulate your cat's real age. Check it out....it has great info about Cats and their health and all kinds of neat stuff.
By the way,....and defiantely not last nor' least....I am VERY sorry to hear about the death of Percy. I hope he brought you a lot of great memories and will live on with you for the rest of "your" life.
Many people also say 7 years. But cats live longer than dogs, so the typical estimate is about 5 years for cats. I hope that helped! PS, 17 is very old for a kitty! My cat just died a week before she turned 12. That is 85 years old if you use the 5 year test! You must have taken very good care of her. She will always be with you.
People generally say it's 7 cats years to one human year, but if you think about it it's more like 5 years.
If it was 7 cat years to one human year, this would've made your cat the equivalent of a 119 year old human - do you think he was that old?! A 119 year old human is close to record-breaking, but a 17 year old cat is not (although of course it is a good age!)
I think a 17 year old cat is more like an 85 year old human (5 x 17). Much more realistic don't you think? My cat was 18 when she died, so she would've been 92 in 'cat years'!
Chalice
I've always heard four years, and it goes with small dogs too.
I don't think it is a straight simple ratio Blue. !7 is a good age he was obviously well cared for. My brothers cat is 19 and seems healthy apart from being stone deaf. Take care and remember the many good times you all had.
i dont think there is really a exact way too they just are what ever age they are for example
1-5 is very young yet
6-9 is middle aged and
10-15 is becoming a senior sort of and
15-20 is very old like a elderly person kind of
thats how i see it anyways hope this helps
I'm so sorry about Percy. Its very hard to lose a good friend who has been with you so long. May you meet again in heaven on the rainbow bridge - he'll be waiting %26 looking for you - comforting thought, huh?
You must have taken very good care of him. There is no exact science to this, but Percy would about 75 - 80 years old or thereabouts if human; he had a long life. Just like humans sometimes seem old at 30 or youthful at 80, cats can vary also.
Something else of interest, I've read that an outdoor cat lives 3 years on average, in comparison 13 years on average for an indoor cat.
Answers:
That 7-1 ratio is a myth.
There's no easy way to work it out by approximation. Many factors are involved and cats and dogs age at different rates during the early human years of their lives.
Someone asked the Queen to send a birthday greeting to their 20yo cat as they felt it was the equivalent of the usual 100yo birthday wish from the Queen.
My kitty was a few weeks shy of her 17th birthday. She had to be put to sleep yesterday.
I was told on Friday last that she had cancer of the intestines and that it was too advanced to treat her effectively.
We had the weekend and May Day holiday together but her temperament changed and I had to let her go.
I miss her so much.
It won't let me include a weblink to a cat age calculator... keep getting an error message
i think its the same 7 years to our one!!
they age differently based on how old they are...
http://www.terzovia.com/src/topics.php?r...
Dog an cat years are not an exact science. I've seen dogs that made it to 17, and cats that made it to 21. The cat, by the way, was on ly sick for a week before it died; before that, it was extremely healthy.
So, basically, there is no direct correlation between cat and dog years and people years. Many people have lived to be 90, and a couple have lived to be 120. Similarly for cats, most can live for between 14 and 20 years, but the oldest lived to be 36!
Based on the typical data available, your cat most likely lived to its full potential, regardless of whatever that might be in "Cat Years".
I saw something at the vets and I think for cats it is 5 years for each human year although I was always brought up with the traditional 7 human years for each cat year
Even at 5 to 1 that would make Percy 85 so a good age.
The Dog Age 7-1 is a myth. I get a weekly E-mail from www.dogage.com that has great stuff and you can measure your Dog's age with a proven method.
They have a Sister site also at www.catage.com also, where you can tabulate your cat's real age. Check it out....it has great info about Cats and their health and all kinds of neat stuff.
By the way,....and defiantely not last nor' least....I am VERY sorry to hear about the death of Percy. I hope he brought you a lot of great memories and will live on with you for the rest of "your" life.
Many people also say 7 years. But cats live longer than dogs, so the typical estimate is about 5 years for cats. I hope that helped! PS, 17 is very old for a kitty! My cat just died a week before she turned 12. That is 85 years old if you use the 5 year test! You must have taken very good care of her. She will always be with you.
People generally say it's 7 cats years to one human year, but if you think about it it's more like 5 years.
If it was 7 cat years to one human year, this would've made your cat the equivalent of a 119 year old human - do you think he was that old?! A 119 year old human is close to record-breaking, but a 17 year old cat is not (although of course it is a good age!)
I think a 17 year old cat is more like an 85 year old human (5 x 17). Much more realistic don't you think? My cat was 18 when she died, so she would've been 92 in 'cat years'!
Chalice
I've always heard four years, and it goes with small dogs too.
I don't think it is a straight simple ratio Blue. !7 is a good age he was obviously well cared for. My brothers cat is 19 and seems healthy apart from being stone deaf. Take care and remember the many good times you all had.
i dont think there is really a exact way too they just are what ever age they are for example
1-5 is very young yet
6-9 is middle aged and
10-15 is becoming a senior sort of and
15-20 is very old like a elderly person kind of
thats how i see it anyways hope this helps
I'm so sorry about Percy. Its very hard to lose a good friend who has been with you so long. May you meet again in heaven on the rainbow bridge - he'll be waiting %26 looking for you - comforting thought, huh?
You must have taken very good care of him. There is no exact science to this, but Percy would about 75 - 80 years old or thereabouts if human; he had a long life. Just like humans sometimes seem old at 30 or youthful at 80, cats can vary also.
Something else of interest, I've read that an outdoor cat lives 3 years on average, in comparison 13 years on average for an indoor cat.
How do you make an outdoor cat warm in the winter?
I am getting a new kitten next week and my husband wants it to be outdoors only. We don't have a heated garage but plan on it staying in there during the winter. Can anyone make a suggestion on how to keep a cat warm during the cold, bitter winter months? Should I build it a kitten house? Use Straw? Blankets? We have a portable heater but can only turn this on a few hours a day and can't leave it unattended. It gives out enough heat within 3 feet. I'm worried this may burn her but keeping the garage door open slightly to allow her to go in and out is a must. PLEASE HELP!
Answers:
luckily for the cat it has fur! cats fur gets thicker in winter months. they are aslo very good at adapting i'm sure the cat will be fine. my three cats all lived into their late 20's and mostly lived outside without any additional coats etc!!!
have fun with your new kitten!
just make sure if it is to live outside that it has had all of its vaccinaions, cat flu is a killer!!
put a jersye on like for the doggys
I don't think you should get a kitten at all. Kittens are too vulnerable to so many dangers outside.
If both you and your husband are not willing to have an adorable, loving kitten INSIDE your home you are just not the right people for a cat. Garages are too hot in summer and too cold in winter and are not an appropriate place for any companion animal. They are dark, dingy, smelly and terrible homes. They may offer some protection or safety and they are the aboslute pits as far as pets are concerned.
get a little dog house or carrier and put a sleeping bag or a couple of blankets ,,,with that in the garage the kitty should be fine,,be careful with the kitten when she;s outside as she will be outside and if a dog or raccoon comes she;ll be dead meat...that happened to a neighbors cat when 2 dogs got the cat and literally skinned the fur off her and she died a bad death,,,,,,,,if you could you should keep her or he indoors till she gets bigger and learns whats good and whats bad,,,,,,,,,,lol
Forget about getting a kitten!!! I'm sorry, but if the cat has to live in the GARAGE, then you should think again about getting a cat. I would think that you would be getting this kitten as a companion, so why should it be kept in the garage?? That reminds me of people that get a dog and tie it to a chain and put the dog box(if it is lucky enough to have one ) at the farther est point of their property, away from their house, and then forget about it, maybe giving it water, and food, if they remember. Do the kitty a BIG favor, and let someone else give the kitty a GOOD home... Thank you.
Can I ask why you are getting a cat if you do not plan to have him/her be part of your family? What is the point of getting a cat if it is going to be outside only? Sorry I do not understand. The best place for a cat during the bitter cold months is inside with his owners snuggled up in a loving lap or stretched out in front of a fireplace or snuggled up on-top of a warm radiator... not left outside to fend for itself and possibly freeze to death. As a cat lover I ask you not to get a kitten in the first place unless you plan to love him/her and treat him/her with the respect he/she deserves.
Answers:
luckily for the cat it has fur! cats fur gets thicker in winter months. they are aslo very good at adapting i'm sure the cat will be fine. my three cats all lived into their late 20's and mostly lived outside without any additional coats etc!!!
have fun with your new kitten!
just make sure if it is to live outside that it has had all of its vaccinaions, cat flu is a killer!!
put a jersye on like for the doggys
I don't think you should get a kitten at all. Kittens are too vulnerable to so many dangers outside.
If both you and your husband are not willing to have an adorable, loving kitten INSIDE your home you are just not the right people for a cat. Garages are too hot in summer and too cold in winter and are not an appropriate place for any companion animal. They are dark, dingy, smelly and terrible homes. They may offer some protection or safety and they are the aboslute pits as far as pets are concerned.
get a little dog house or carrier and put a sleeping bag or a couple of blankets ,,,with that in the garage the kitty should be fine,,be careful with the kitten when she;s outside as she will be outside and if a dog or raccoon comes she;ll be dead meat...that happened to a neighbors cat when 2 dogs got the cat and literally skinned the fur off her and she died a bad death,,,,,,,,if you could you should keep her or he indoors till she gets bigger and learns whats good and whats bad,,,,,,,,,,lol
Forget about getting a kitten!!! I'm sorry, but if the cat has to live in the GARAGE, then you should think again about getting a cat. I would think that you would be getting this kitten as a companion, so why should it be kept in the garage?? That reminds me of people that get a dog and tie it to a chain and put the dog box(if it is lucky enough to have one ) at the farther est point of their property, away from their house, and then forget about it, maybe giving it water, and food, if they remember. Do the kitty a BIG favor, and let someone else give the kitty a GOOD home... Thank you.
Can I ask why you are getting a cat if you do not plan to have him/her be part of your family? What is the point of getting a cat if it is going to be outside only? Sorry I do not understand. The best place for a cat during the bitter cold months is inside with his owners snuggled up in a loving lap or stretched out in front of a fireplace or snuggled up on-top of a warm radiator... not left outside to fend for itself and possibly freeze to death. As a cat lover I ask you not to get a kitten in the first place unless you plan to love him/her and treat him/her with the respect he/she deserves.
How do you litter train a kitten?
One of our kittens which is about 2 months old, she isn't using the litter box on her own. The only way she uses it is when I put her in there. If I don't put her in there and she has to go, she goes on the rug. What is the best way to litter train her? Thanks for your help.
Answers:
You are doing the right thing, she just isn't getting that "click" in her kitty brain. The mom cat would pick her up by the scruff and "drop" her onto the litter. You be the mom, pick her up by the scruff and drop her (not set her) onto the litter. Repeat this very often as well as everytime she has an accident. You needn't say a thing... you are the mom .
tell her nicely and then she will listen
glue her feet to the litter feet to the litter box.....
jk, thats mean
just keep putting her in there and praising her.
The next time she poops, place the poop in the litter box and take her to the litter box. Take her paw and scratch the litter. She should get the picture. I thinks it's strange she isn't using the box at 2 months. If you have her littermates and they are doing it and she's not.maybe she should see the vet, after you give my suggestion a couple of tries. Best of luck.
Keep her shut in an uncarpeted room, preferably a bathroom, with no rugs or bath mats on the floor. If her only choices are a tile floor or the litter box, she'll use the litter box. You can let her out after she's used the litter box consistently for several days. However, you'll still need to monitor her; some cats just seem to prefer carpet.
Make sure the litter box is clean, and you might try changing litters. My finicky cat liked Cat Attract, which is a more expensive brand.
Good luck!
Kittens are taught how to use the litter box from their moms. So, chances are she was seperated before she was able to learn this. Do as a mama cat would, show her where it is, pour some water in there and cover it w/ the litter. If you catch her in the act put her in the box and guide her along.
Taking some of her poop and putting it in will help, but you also will need to get another litter box. Typically one per cat is best as some cats don't like to share theirs. This may help because she may not want to use the one the other cat uses.
You need to clean up the places she used for a toilet with some sort of enzymatic cleaner like simple solution or natures miracle. Then she won't smell it and think "this is the place". The best thing to do would be to put her in the bathroom with a litter box, and all her other stuff. You might want to make a ramp up to the litter box with a piece of wood, just to encourage her. This way it will be easier for you to clean up, and she is more likely to use the litterbox if she is in a smaller area. Cats are usually pretty particular about their surroundings and don't want to eat close to where they "go". Visit the kitten often, but don't let her out. If you have a cage or a kennel, that would be even better than the bathroom.
Well cats usually have a natural instinct when it comes to going to the litter box but if your little one has problems just place her in the litter box when you notice her sniffing around. also try locking her in the bathroom with the litter box. If you keep putting her in the littler box, eventually she'll get the idea. The problem may be that her mother may not have been an indoor cat and never showed the kittens that the litter box is the bathroom. She'll be fine, cats naturally go for litter, try putting a little baking soda in the box, something about the smell makes animals go to it.
just keep doing what you are doing, in time she will use it on her own
take out your rug...it might think that it is the litter box...andyou sould also put the kitten on the litter box and move her legs in a back fourth motion in the litter for about a week or so.you cat sould us her natural instink
Every hour put your cat in the litter box and tell your cat to go potty. and if it gose give your cat a treat.
Answers:
You are doing the right thing, she just isn't getting that "click" in her kitty brain. The mom cat would pick her up by the scruff and "drop" her onto the litter. You be the mom, pick her up by the scruff and drop her (not set her) onto the litter. Repeat this very often as well as everytime she has an accident. You needn't say a thing... you are the mom .
tell her nicely and then she will listen
glue her feet to the litter feet to the litter box.....
jk, thats mean
just keep putting her in there and praising her.
The next time she poops, place the poop in the litter box and take her to the litter box. Take her paw and scratch the litter. She should get the picture. I thinks it's strange she isn't using the box at 2 months. If you have her littermates and they are doing it and she's not.maybe she should see the vet, after you give my suggestion a couple of tries. Best of luck.
Keep her shut in an uncarpeted room, preferably a bathroom, with no rugs or bath mats on the floor. If her only choices are a tile floor or the litter box, she'll use the litter box. You can let her out after she's used the litter box consistently for several days. However, you'll still need to monitor her; some cats just seem to prefer carpet.
Make sure the litter box is clean, and you might try changing litters. My finicky cat liked Cat Attract, which is a more expensive brand.
Good luck!
Kittens are taught how to use the litter box from their moms. So, chances are she was seperated before she was able to learn this. Do as a mama cat would, show her where it is, pour some water in there and cover it w/ the litter. If you catch her in the act put her in the box and guide her along.
Taking some of her poop and putting it in will help, but you also will need to get another litter box. Typically one per cat is best as some cats don't like to share theirs. This may help because she may not want to use the one the other cat uses.
You need to clean up the places she used for a toilet with some sort of enzymatic cleaner like simple solution or natures miracle. Then she won't smell it and think "this is the place". The best thing to do would be to put her in the bathroom with a litter box, and all her other stuff. You might want to make a ramp up to the litter box with a piece of wood, just to encourage her. This way it will be easier for you to clean up, and she is more likely to use the litterbox if she is in a smaller area. Cats are usually pretty particular about their surroundings and don't want to eat close to where they "go". Visit the kitten often, but don't let her out. If you have a cage or a kennel, that would be even better than the bathroom.
Well cats usually have a natural instinct when it comes to going to the litter box but if your little one has problems just place her in the litter box when you notice her sniffing around. also try locking her in the bathroom with the litter box. If you keep putting her in the littler box, eventually she'll get the idea. The problem may be that her mother may not have been an indoor cat and never showed the kittens that the litter box is the bathroom. She'll be fine, cats naturally go for litter, try putting a little baking soda in the box, something about the smell makes animals go to it.
just keep doing what you are doing, in time she will use it on her own
take out your rug...it might think that it is the litter box...andyou sould also put the kitten on the litter box and move her legs in a back fourth motion in the litter for about a week or so.you cat sould us her natural instink
Every hour put your cat in the litter box and tell your cat to go potty. and if it gose give your cat a treat.
How do you know your cats in heat???
my cat is only 8 months old and she liks butt alot and does a weird sound and rolls around alot too!!
Answers:
shes in heat. THe most obvious signs are meowing strangly, rubbing against you, rolling around, wanting out and being very loving.Kinda like women, lol. Get her spade. She is too young to be a mother and will be healthier if fixed, less chances of cancer.
CONGRATULATIONS!! Your cat is in heat. DO NOT LET HER OUTSIDE!!! The only way this annoying behavior will stop is if you get her fixed. Please do that. If you cant afford it, call your local humane society and they will help you out. Please do everyone a favor and get your baby fixed. She and you will be so much happier.
the cat usually howls very loud and often, and when you pet them they stick their rear end up in the air
There are many ways she will start wanting by her tell pet more and more. She will roll around on the ground and make a "calling noise" she will also try and get out of the house if you dont have a male around. She will be much more affectionate then normal and rub her body in your face and your legs and anything else she can rub on. Your female seems to be in heat and if she is 8 months then she is probably in heat because what you are saying is the signs that she is in heat. If you are not planning on breeding her you need to get her fixed because she will come back into heat every 2 to 3 weeks till she is breed or you get her fixed.
The last time that one of my cats was in heat, she wandered around the house most of the day and most of the night. She climbed on the furniture, jumping from wall unit to bookcase and the entire time she screamed with the most god-awful meow that you have ever heard. Does that sound anything like yours? If so, she's in heat.
she's in heat and she is calling the males...
they will be at your house soon and they will be making weird crying sounds too.. it gets very annoying!
if you don't want little kitties or the troubles of fighting off male cats, i suggest you have her spayed as soon as you can!
Answers:
shes in heat. THe most obvious signs are meowing strangly, rubbing against you, rolling around, wanting out and being very loving.Kinda like women, lol. Get her spade. She is too young to be a mother and will be healthier if fixed, less chances of cancer.
CONGRATULATIONS!! Your cat is in heat. DO NOT LET HER OUTSIDE!!! The only way this annoying behavior will stop is if you get her fixed. Please do that. If you cant afford it, call your local humane society and they will help you out. Please do everyone a favor and get your baby fixed. She and you will be so much happier.
the cat usually howls very loud and often, and when you pet them they stick their rear end up in the air
There are many ways she will start wanting by her tell pet more and more. She will roll around on the ground and make a "calling noise" she will also try and get out of the house if you dont have a male around. She will be much more affectionate then normal and rub her body in your face and your legs and anything else she can rub on. Your female seems to be in heat and if she is 8 months then she is probably in heat because what you are saying is the signs that she is in heat. If you are not planning on breeding her you need to get her fixed because she will come back into heat every 2 to 3 weeks till she is breed or you get her fixed.
The last time that one of my cats was in heat, she wandered around the house most of the day and most of the night. She climbed on the furniture, jumping from wall unit to bookcase and the entire time she screamed with the most god-awful meow that you have ever heard. Does that sound anything like yours? If so, she's in heat.
she's in heat and she is calling the males...
they will be at your house soon and they will be making weird crying sounds too.. it gets very annoying!
if you don't want little kitties or the troubles of fighting off male cats, i suggest you have her spayed as soon as you can!
How do you know your cats gender?
I want to know if my cat is a male or female.
It's only 4 weeks old.
should i wait longer till its older or should I know already?
Answers:
At this age, it can be hard to tell since everything is so tiny.
try these photos for help
http://www.thepetcenter.com/exa/kitx2.jp...
http://www.thepetcenter.com/exa/kitx3.jp...
when we first got my cat at 4 weeks, we thought he was a girl and had to be corrected by the vet.
If its a male it'll have a penis in a sheath between its back leg (Don't play with it)
If its a female, it will have a small slit just under where it poops.
DEr! By looking at it's private!
Ask it. It should tell you. Cats are very proud of their gender. I enjoy having nice long conversations with my cats.
Wait longer. Don't make a guess. Once, we thought our cat was a girl, we named it Tink and dressed it up in pink dresses and put bows in its fluff. We went to get it spay, the vet came in and said, "We can't spay this cat! But...we can neuter him!" So theres the story.
I can tell the sex of a cat as soon as it's born. (it's actually kinda easy at that time, since they're a little swollen) just check if it looks like a slit, it's a girl, if it looks like a hole it's a boy (you omight also notice testicles-might not too). Also if it's pure orange, likely it's a boy, if it's orange dark and white(calico) guaranteed it's a girl.
just wait and you'll see the difference sooner or later
Females have a vertical slit under where it goes potty and a male has a little round hole.
The same way you can tell whether a baby is a boy or girl
It's only 4 weeks old.
should i wait longer till its older or should I know already?
Answers:
At this age, it can be hard to tell since everything is so tiny.
try these photos for help
http://www.thepetcenter.com/exa/kitx2.jp...
http://www.thepetcenter.com/exa/kitx3.jp...
when we first got my cat at 4 weeks, we thought he was a girl and had to be corrected by the vet.
If its a male it'll have a penis in a sheath between its back leg (Don't play with it)
If its a female, it will have a small slit just under where it poops.
DEr! By looking at it's private!
Ask it. It should tell you. Cats are very proud of their gender. I enjoy having nice long conversations with my cats.
Wait longer. Don't make a guess. Once, we thought our cat was a girl, we named it Tink and dressed it up in pink dresses and put bows in its fluff. We went to get it spay, the vet came in and said, "We can't spay this cat! But...we can neuter him!" So theres the story.
I can tell the sex of a cat as soon as it's born. (it's actually kinda easy at that time, since they're a little swollen) just check if it looks like a slit, it's a girl, if it looks like a hole it's a boy (you omight also notice testicles-might not too). Also if it's pure orange, likely it's a boy, if it's orange dark and white(calico) guaranteed it's a girl.
just wait and you'll see the difference sooner or later
Females have a vertical slit under where it goes potty and a male has a little round hole.
The same way you can tell whether a baby is a boy or girl
How do you know when a female cat is pregnant?
Answers:
I found it very difficult to know until she was is the later stages of pregnancy. But here are a few signs to look out for:
*Reddening nipples- also known as 'pinking up'. but this doesn't occur till about the third week of pregnancy.
*Weight gain
*Swollen abdomen- don't poke as this may cause damage
*May start to act maternal- finding a place to nest, collecting socks(weird I know, but have heard it can happen)
Hope this helps
Good luck and I hope everything goes smoothly for you and your cat
Pot belly normally! :)
starts toget chubby and also u can get a vet to look at it hope i helped chelliie
i herd female cats get grumpy when it comes to sex lol
when the kitten comes out XD
When it quits "yowling", then all the sudden has swollen nipples and a belly going!!!
i think its when the cats belly gets bigger than it normally is
It gets fatter than usual. Lol. GL!
same way you know when a woman is preggers, shes fat, moody, eats allot, pees 10 times a minute, really demanding, lazy, couldnt be bothered to do the cooking or cleaning like a good little slave, oh, im sorry, was that offensive to all women, ooopppsss!!!
We noticed our cat was pregnant because after about 3 weeks her nipples became very pink and enlarged and she started putting on weight. although she was very love-able
How do you know when a MALE cat is pregnant?
How do you know when a cat has worms?
i have 2 cats one 8 months and the girl 3 months. they sher litter box the older cat seems to be normal and the little one has diarrhea but i guess thats cuz she changed food from kitty milk to wet food (cuz of his small teeth and the little amount of teeth that she has) but how do i tel if they have worms? yes yes yes go to the vet i know but my question is is there a way to know when a cat has worms??
Answers:
when you see a white things stuck by there asss under or by the tail it will look like a piece of rice.. worms crawl out of there butts and fall off ..the cat loses weight and licks its self alot
usually diarrhea is a really good sign that they do, but if you just switched foods you may want to wait and make sure its not the food upsetting its stomach, but the only positive way to know is go to the vet and have them tested but they should be dewormed at like 3 or 4 months old (most dogs and cats are born with worms)
YES... THEY SEEM TO ALWAYS BE BUSY DOWN THERE AND ONE SURE WAY...WHEN THERE SLEEPING ..QUICKLY LIFT THERE TAIL UP AND YOU-LL SEE THE WORMS PEEKING OUT..MAKE SURE THE ROOM IS SEMI DARK AND USE A FLASHLIGHT TO VIEW
tape worms look like tiny seeds but if they have fles then they have tape worms they need a check up and the doc can give the vac that they need ...
good luck
Depending on what type of worms are present, you may see things like white rice grains (tapeworm segments) in their poo, around their bottom or even in their fur.
Signs of heavy or prolonged worm burden are diarrhoea, excessive hunger and, the classic look of a cat with worms, skinny with a pot belly.
If you know you should go to a vet - do it! Get some worm meds from them, prevention is better than cure.
Chalice
they eat and eat and eat, or feel there tummy if it is hard, they could have worms, check there poop, you'll see little worms moving around in it. most cats are born with worms.
you can usually see little white things like grains of rice when they lift their tails up. these are tape worms.
Sometimes thay drag there rear ends across the floor or there bellys are really round and exstended. All cats have worms if they are born to a mother who is not dewormed. and who is not strickly a inside cat. The worm medication from the vets is cheap. I would worm them anyway because you can get the worms.
Answers:
when you see a white things stuck by there asss under or by the tail it will look like a piece of rice.. worms crawl out of there butts and fall off ..the cat loses weight and licks its self alot
usually diarrhea is a really good sign that they do, but if you just switched foods you may want to wait and make sure its not the food upsetting its stomach, but the only positive way to know is go to the vet and have them tested but they should be dewormed at like 3 or 4 months old (most dogs and cats are born with worms)
YES... THEY SEEM TO ALWAYS BE BUSY DOWN THERE AND ONE SURE WAY...WHEN THERE SLEEPING ..QUICKLY LIFT THERE TAIL UP AND YOU-LL SEE THE WORMS PEEKING OUT..MAKE SURE THE ROOM IS SEMI DARK AND USE A FLASHLIGHT TO VIEW
tape worms look like tiny seeds but if they have fles then they have tape worms they need a check up and the doc can give the vac that they need ...
good luck
Depending on what type of worms are present, you may see things like white rice grains (tapeworm segments) in their poo, around their bottom or even in their fur.
Signs of heavy or prolonged worm burden are diarrhoea, excessive hunger and, the classic look of a cat with worms, skinny with a pot belly.
If you know you should go to a vet - do it! Get some worm meds from them, prevention is better than cure.
Chalice
they eat and eat and eat, or feel there tummy if it is hard, they could have worms, check there poop, you'll see little worms moving around in it. most cats are born with worms.
you can usually see little white things like grains of rice when they lift their tails up. these are tape worms.
Sometimes thay drag there rear ends across the floor or there bellys are really round and exstended. All cats have worms if they are born to a mother who is not dewormed. and who is not strickly a inside cat. The worm medication from the vets is cheap. I would worm them anyway because you can get the worms.
How do you know if your cat is for sure pregnant?
plz help i need to find out if my cat is pregnant because she was skinny and then she got fatter and i think she may be pregnant plz help me thank you
Answers:
your cat's belly will get so big as to elevate it's feet so that the feet won't touch the ground. That's why pregnant cats can't walk.
Take your cat to the local vet ASAP.
VISIT TO A VET.
Visit a local vet, was she in heat and is she hanging with any tom's has any toms been on top of her is so most likely maybe she is just gaining weight also take her to petsmart and maybe they could feel for kittens
Answers:
your cat's belly will get so big as to elevate it's feet so that the feet won't touch the ground. That's why pregnant cats can't walk.
Take your cat to the local vet ASAP.
VISIT TO A VET.
Visit a local vet, was she in heat and is she hanging with any tom's has any toms been on top of her is so most likely maybe she is just gaining weight also take her to petsmart and maybe they could feel for kittens
How do you know if you can get rabies from a stray cat?
Answers:
People who answered this saying that they can keep a cat in quarintine and have the cat tested and then put in a good home. Don't you realize that for an animal to be tested, they ahve to cut off it's head to check the brain tissue? If the cat gets tested...IT'S DEAD!!!!!
If you have been bitten or scratched by a stray cat than there is always the possibility they have rabies. You may want to get yourself checked, or better yet call the local humane society and have them bring the cat in, they can check it for rabies and hopefully find the cat a good home.
Edit: Maybe I wasn't clear enough, hopefully they will test the cat, find out it doesn't have rabies and find it a good home.
dont let it bite or scratch you? what is the situation here are you planning to keep the cat or something? a rabies shot is only about 20 bucks on the high end the low end some run as cheap as 14 dollars. you'll know if something has rabies trust me. acting wild and not letting you come near or getting way too close (wild animals who would not normally come up to a human often do when infected) foaming of the mouth, etc. you'll know.
i was bitten by a stray not too long ago, and cats have alot of bacteria in there mouth, you will need to get that taken care of rom your dr., but you will have to get the cat into quarintine for rabbies, call your doctor and and the local animal control
If the cat was acting oddly and you were scratched or bitten, you need to talk to a doctor. TIME IS OF THE ESSENCE!!! By the time you'd be displaying symptoms it would be TOO LATE! So, if you're concerned, call ASAP. Regarding the cat: to do rabies testing, they have to put it to sleep and then send its head to a lab to be tested (brain matter, I believe).
Like I said, you need to go ASAP because people still do die from rabies. Only 1 person so far (I believe) has survived the full onset of rabies, and your chances grow very slim once you show any symptoms.
So, if you think you've been exposed, YOU NEED TO SEEK A DOCTOR NOW!
It is almost unknown in the US for cats or dogs to have rabies nowadays because most of them are vaccinated, and the rest have nobody to catch it from.
The only way you are likely to get rabies is from the bite of a rabid animal. If the cat didn't bite you, don't worry.
If you have the cat, you can have it tested, if you're worried.
Even if the cat doesn't have rabies, though, cat bites often get infected. You may end up going to the doctor anyway.
If you are still worried, talk to your doctor about it.
If you are bitten or scratched by a cat, the cat should be quarantined for 10 days. If it does not die or show signs of rabies within those 10 days, you're probably fine.
If the cat bite or scratched you, you should go to a doctor right away.When you start showing signs than its to later to get treated.
Symptoms include:fever,fear of water,paralysis, and more
My brother was bitten by a stray cat when he was younger. At that time the only way to test for rabies, in the cat, was to kill the cat and run tests on the cats brain, as rabies is an infection of the brain.
If you are bitten, licked or touched in anyway that saliva gets into an open area by any animal there is always a chance of rabies, unless you know that the animal has had a rabies shot.
For more information on the rabies virus go to www.rabies.com
How do you keep your cat from clawing at the carpet?
Any tips welcome!
The cat's not going anywhere, neither is the carpet.
Answers:
They have this thing called Soft Paws they sell it at petco and petsmart. You just stick some glue in the little cap and then slide the nail in (once the nail is cut). I use these on my cats and they dont have a problem with it. Thats the best thing please do not declaw your cat this works much better and they never feel any pain. Declawing can lead to serious problems.
keep in its cage
take its claws out.
Get the cat a scratching post. It can be picked up at any pet store. If you are not going to declaw the cat this is an essential toy to have. A cat has a natural need to sharpen or groom it's claws and that is why your cat is doing this. Hope this helps!
Have it de-clawed.
don't declaw! it's cruel, you could try softpaws instead. I think the old water bottle works good. squirt your kitty everytime he does something bad, and he'll get the idea and stop (hopefully all the time, and not just when you're looking). cats HATE being squirted, but it doesn't hurt them, just don't aim at their eyes. if you get them in the rear area, they especially hate that.
Declawing is cruel, and should be a last resort.
Keep a small spray bottle filled with water nearby. When you catch the cat clawing at the carpet, spray him/her with it until he/she catches on that whenever they claw at the carpet they will get wet. I tried this with my dog and it worked when he chased my cat and it worked when he clawed at the door.
Good luck.
Get it declawed
Try one of those cardboard scratching boxes. You can buy them at any pet store. They work great!
You can clip the cat's claws rather than de-clawing the cat. You can also get a scratching post. I would choose either of those options over de-clawing or using a water bottle.
Have a vet de-claw the cat.
don't declaw him please it will hurt him very muchly
the water bottle trick works very nicely and give him a treat when he stops doing it.
its like training him to use the kitty litter it will take time
Try a scratching post/toys %26 train. If this does not work try spraying with water, keep the nails trimmed, then try the glue on nail covers. I know I will be sreamed at here for this next one, it's contraversial; keep the cat indoors and declaw. I HATE declawing but when my cats will not train and stop the horrible behavior, they destroy the house; my thought is they have a great home, lots of love, and a great life. So, if they have to be declawed, so be it. I tried one cat who was abandoned, he was older, after a year of destruction in my home (couches, drapes, sheers, etc.) I had it and spoke to the vet and it was a unanimous decision to declaw since it was best for all. He lived an happy life and was none the worse for the surgery. BUT you cannot let the cat outdoors b/c they cannot defend themselves. I never had one get out. My other ones are not declawed nor do they go outdoors unless on a harness and leash.
But him or her a scratching post and put some cat nip on it. Show him or her where to scratch if it starts to scratch the carpet. You can also trim the cat's front claws with special claw clippers you can get from the pet section. Be sure not to cut into the pink part of the claw to avoid blood vessels. If you are unsure how to trim your cat's claws have a professional show you how. Good luck.
I have three cats and they are all declawed.One of them I bought that way the other two I a had it done.My third cat I didn't want to get declawed but had to because he was scratching everything.The only thing that worked for a little while was the carpeted scratching post.Some cats just never stop doing it even after there out of there kitten stage good luck.
The cat's not going anywhere, neither is the carpet.
Answers:
They have this thing called Soft Paws they sell it at petco and petsmart. You just stick some glue in the little cap and then slide the nail in (once the nail is cut). I use these on my cats and they dont have a problem with it. Thats the best thing please do not declaw your cat this works much better and they never feel any pain. Declawing can lead to serious problems.
keep in its cage
take its claws out.
Get the cat a scratching post. It can be picked up at any pet store. If you are not going to declaw the cat this is an essential toy to have. A cat has a natural need to sharpen or groom it's claws and that is why your cat is doing this. Hope this helps!
Have it de-clawed.
don't declaw! it's cruel, you could try softpaws instead. I think the old water bottle works good. squirt your kitty everytime he does something bad, and he'll get the idea and stop (hopefully all the time, and not just when you're looking). cats HATE being squirted, but it doesn't hurt them, just don't aim at their eyes. if you get them in the rear area, they especially hate that.
Declawing is cruel, and should be a last resort.
Keep a small spray bottle filled with water nearby. When you catch the cat clawing at the carpet, spray him/her with it until he/she catches on that whenever they claw at the carpet they will get wet. I tried this with my dog and it worked when he chased my cat and it worked when he clawed at the door.
Good luck.
Get it declawed
Try one of those cardboard scratching boxes. You can buy them at any pet store. They work great!
You can clip the cat's claws rather than de-clawing the cat. You can also get a scratching post. I would choose either of those options over de-clawing or using a water bottle.
Have a vet de-claw the cat.
don't declaw him please it will hurt him very muchly
the water bottle trick works very nicely and give him a treat when he stops doing it.
its like training him to use the kitty litter it will take time
Try a scratching post/toys %26 train. If this does not work try spraying with water, keep the nails trimmed, then try the glue on nail covers. I know I will be sreamed at here for this next one, it's contraversial; keep the cat indoors and declaw. I HATE declawing but when my cats will not train and stop the horrible behavior, they destroy the house; my thought is they have a great home, lots of love, and a great life. So, if they have to be declawed, so be it. I tried one cat who was abandoned, he was older, after a year of destruction in my home (couches, drapes, sheers, etc.) I had it and spoke to the vet and it was a unanimous decision to declaw since it was best for all. He lived an happy life and was none the worse for the surgery. BUT you cannot let the cat outdoors b/c they cannot defend themselves. I never had one get out. My other ones are not declawed nor do they go outdoors unless on a harness and leash.
But him or her a scratching post and put some cat nip on it. Show him or her where to scratch if it starts to scratch the carpet. You can also trim the cat's front claws with special claw clippers you can get from the pet section. Be sure not to cut into the pink part of the claw to avoid blood vessels. If you are unsure how to trim your cat's claws have a professional show you how. Good luck.
I have three cats and they are all declawed.One of them I bought that way the other two I a had it done.My third cat I didn't want to get declawed but had to because he was scratching everything.The only thing that worked for a little while was the carpeted scratching post.Some cats just never stop doing it even after there out of there kitten stage good luck.
How do you keep the cat from jumping on tob of the counter?
Answers:
DOUBLE SIDED TAPE!!!
A couple of times getting that stuff stuck on the paws will cure any cat of jumping up. Keep some handy in case they start slipping up.
Lemon furniture polish will keep cats from clawing furniture, also. They hate the smell and they hate the goop. Keep a piece of carpet around for them to claw instead, and saturate it with catnip. They love that stuff.
small water gun...it works and it's not mean
A squirt of water from a water gun is a good cat training method. Also, an air spray can...like one of those cans that you'd use to spray between keys on a keyboard. You have to be sure to catch the cat in the act, though.
My cat has the same problem...we weren't able to get him to stop but here are the things we tried:
Firmly placing him on the floor with a sharp 'no!' every time he jumped up
squirting him with a waterbottle
putting tape sticky side up on the counter
putting water or moist paper towels on the counter
Also, we gave him an area up high to call his own (on top of a book case) because cats naturally want to be as high as possible, and that seemed to help a little.
Good luck!
you can train a cat not to do things with a squirt bottle and some water, squirt the cat when he/she does something wrong and say "no" - the cat will soon learn that being squirted is not fun and refrain from doing what you don't want him to.
scream NO!!! and Get Down. if you use those words often your pet will get used to it and will obey you. my cat knows the words now and its great. when i don't want him in the room i say "get out kitty' and he walks right out.
How do you keep cats off your furniture?
Answers:
You don't. Cats will do whatever they please.
remove the cats legs
You cant they have minds of their own, the only thing I can suggest is put throws over sofas etc or keep them to one room in the house.
Sorry cant help any further
Squirt them with a squirt bottle or slap a rolled up newspaper up close to them so that it makes noise and startles them, hopefully they associate that with climbing on the furniture and they stop. good luck!
Put aluminimum foil on the furniture you want the cat to stay off of. It will jump up and be startled by it and learn to stay off. There are also commerical products (Scat Mats) that effectively do the same thing.
I'd like to help you but...I really don't know what to tell you but...if you do... figure it out then please, let me know!!
Good luck!
i yell NO very loudly clap my hands and then push them off if they are still up there.
after a while if i just clap my hands they know to get down, and if not you got to reinforce the clapping of hands by pushing them down afterwards.
then after a while they realize, the clapping of hands means i will be pushed down, so they jump down.
ive also heard of getting a spray bottle. and squirting them.
hope it helps.
Actually, the first answer is the closest to being accurate. The only way to keep a cat from doing what it wants is to physically disable it!
I don't think you SHOULD. That's animal abuse and I think people who abuse animals deserve to be treated in the same manner they treated the animal. I'm just making the point that you can train a cat to do certain things (like not scratch), but cats are feisty, curious, stubborn animals and are naturally going to explore every inch of their surroundings. Not much you can do--if you push them off the couch, they'll jump right back on.
watergun
I don't. I cover my couch with a throw blanket so they don't get hair all over it.
The best way I've found is to spread tomato sauce on the furniture where the cat likes to go. They don't really like to get messy so they generally stay away. I usually use a spatula and just spread a thin layer (about 1/2 inch) of sauce all over my couch and chairs about once a week (works especially well on leather furniture). I also pour it on the carpet to keep the cat from scratching. If it doesn't work, try adding more garlic. Good Luck!
I think cats really do what they want. I personally put things (toys, remote, cordless phone, etc.) on the couch when i leave the house so they have nowhere to lay.
How do you keep cats away from a pool???
A cheap way.
Answers:
Your pet cats should be kept indoors.If you mean stray cats, well most of them don't really like the water anyway. But if you have cats going in the pool sprinkle some moth balls around the pool. It's not the only way but it is the cheapest.
Throw them in...they'll never go near it again.
There are sonic detectors that you can put around the pool. The let a high pitched sound off or something like that I know you can get them on ebay. apparently it deters animals.
what i have done is buy some netting, close weave. layed it just under the water line so its not visible and secure it with wire to the sides,,if the cat falls in she wont drown, keeps herons out too, protects fish, and is cheap and cheerful.
cats are inquizative and will go any where that seams to be of interest to them,,my cats are always around my pool i dont worry too much as i know that cats can swim if you want to keep yours away try spraying it with the hose each time it goes near beleive me it works,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
Your cats or neighbor cats? If they are your cats, just keep them indoors. It's far safer for them there. Usually, cats don't like water and won't go near it. If you have a particular breed of cat, like a Bengal, that cat may want to go swimming or deficate in the pool. If it is a purebred cat, it should be kept indoors with plenty of fresh water of it's own to drink. If they are neighbors cats, just put a few rags soaked with ammonia along your property line and that should keep them away. Or get a dog.
Cheap, I am not sure . safest would be the "invisible fence "type of devices. Another good one is an alarm that goes off when in contact to water .. This way, if the cat ever gets to the pool, you would know.
I have a 20X40 in ground pool and I also have many cats On my farm I put a privacy fence up panels 8 ft wide 6 ft long the got ply wood 1/2 and cut 1 ft long peaces and used cheep L shape brackets Lowes 1.17 ea, and ran a 1 ft plywood strip all around the top of the fence and over the doors to get in. and this works 100% Make sure the wood faces out away from fence now they can;t get in nor jump since I took away there ability to get to the top and increase there angle to jump up.It's been up for 3 weeks now and not 1 cat got in or over the fence use the same idea as keeping a squirrel out
put a fence around it or get a electric fence and put the thing on ur cat
PUT UP A FENCE!
your cats or neighbors cats? a logical answer is to keep it covered when not in use, or a fence, neither are cheap. good luck.
unbeknownst to most people, cats are great swimmers. They don't necessarily like to swim but they can.
I wouldn't worry about keeping them out of the pool it is unlikely that they would venture in but if they did they could swim to the edge of the pool and get out on their own.
You don't have to keep the animal inside. WHat you do is show them about pools. Take off the cover if you have it, put the cat near the pool, and splash it a few times, that cat will avoid that pool forever. Problem solved. A little education of a cat goes a LONG way, ask anyone with an indoor/outdoor cat.
Answers:
Your pet cats should be kept indoors.If you mean stray cats, well most of them don't really like the water anyway. But if you have cats going in the pool sprinkle some moth balls around the pool. It's not the only way but it is the cheapest.
Throw them in...they'll never go near it again.
There are sonic detectors that you can put around the pool. The let a high pitched sound off or something like that I know you can get them on ebay. apparently it deters animals.
what i have done is buy some netting, close weave. layed it just under the water line so its not visible and secure it with wire to the sides,,if the cat falls in she wont drown, keeps herons out too, protects fish, and is cheap and cheerful.
cats are inquizative and will go any where that seams to be of interest to them,,my cats are always around my pool i dont worry too much as i know that cats can swim if you want to keep yours away try spraying it with the hose each time it goes near beleive me it works,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
Your cats or neighbor cats? If they are your cats, just keep them indoors. It's far safer for them there. Usually, cats don't like water and won't go near it. If you have a particular breed of cat, like a Bengal, that cat may want to go swimming or deficate in the pool. If it is a purebred cat, it should be kept indoors with plenty of fresh water of it's own to drink. If they are neighbors cats, just put a few rags soaked with ammonia along your property line and that should keep them away. Or get a dog.
Cheap, I am not sure . safest would be the "invisible fence "type of devices. Another good one is an alarm that goes off when in contact to water .. This way, if the cat ever gets to the pool, you would know.
I have a 20X40 in ground pool and I also have many cats On my farm I put a privacy fence up panels 8 ft wide 6 ft long the got ply wood 1/2 and cut 1 ft long peaces and used cheep L shape brackets Lowes 1.17 ea, and ran a 1 ft plywood strip all around the top of the fence and over the doors to get in. and this works 100% Make sure the wood faces out away from fence now they can;t get in nor jump since I took away there ability to get to the top and increase there angle to jump up.It's been up for 3 weeks now and not 1 cat got in or over the fence use the same idea as keeping a squirrel out
put a fence around it or get a electric fence and put the thing on ur cat
PUT UP A FENCE!
your cats or neighbors cats? a logical answer is to keep it covered when not in use, or a fence, neither are cheap. good luck.
unbeknownst to most people, cats are great swimmers. They don't necessarily like to swim but they can.
I wouldn't worry about keeping them out of the pool it is unlikely that they would venture in but if they did they could swim to the edge of the pool and get out on their own.
You don't have to keep the animal inside. WHat you do is show them about pools. Take off the cover if you have it, put the cat near the pool, and splash it a few times, that cat will avoid that pool forever. Problem solved. A little education of a cat goes a LONG way, ask anyone with an indoor/outdoor cat.
How do you keep a cat under control?
My cat is in pain because my sister closed the door on its tail and it fell off. He got 3/4 of his tail amputated and has one of those lampshade looking things on. He got his bandages removed a day after the surgery and is now trying to chew his tail. What can I do to control him?
Answers:
Bach's Rescue Remedy - which the first poster suggested - is available at GNC. I've actually never used it for my cat, although I've heard it works well - I use it for my own anxiety! My cat is also a tail-amputee, but it happened before I get her. I suggest keeping the cone on him, using the Rescue Remedy, and giving him lots of TLC. Good luck!
You can put the cone collar back on until he's healed enough so it doesn't itch or hurt (so he won't be tempted to chew on his tail stub). There's this flower essence called Remedy Rescue that is supposed to calm cats and it might help--it's hemopathic and safe for cats. You might be able to rub some of that bitter apple stuff on his scab--some cats find it distasteful (but some actually like the taste).
Answers:
Bach's Rescue Remedy - which the first poster suggested - is available at GNC. I've actually never used it for my cat, although I've heard it works well - I use it for my own anxiety! My cat is also a tail-amputee, but it happened before I get her. I suggest keeping the cone on him, using the Rescue Remedy, and giving him lots of TLC. Good luck!
You can put the cone collar back on until he's healed enough so it doesn't itch or hurt (so he won't be tempted to chew on his tail stub). There's this flower essence called Remedy Rescue that is supposed to calm cats and it might help--it's hemopathic and safe for cats. You might be able to rub some of that bitter apple stuff on his scab--some cats find it distasteful (but some actually like the taste).
How do you keep a cat from scratching your furniture?
Answers:
do NOT declaw him. this requires amputation of the last bone of each toe. it causes multiple long term serious problems, including toilet problems, muscle and joint problems among others. Be prepared for a big vet bill and a cat with issues if you do.
theres a product called "soft claws" you can buy. it consists of small rounded caps that you glue onto each of your cats claws. they last a couple of months and your cat wont be able to damage anything with scratching.
you can also file your cats nails (gently).
you can also get him his own scratch pole, with plenty of cat nip spray on it that will attract him to the pole instead of the couch.
there are also products you can get to spray on your couch to keep him away.
.
.
Have them declawed
They don't like citrus, wee put orange peel around the area and that seemed to keep them away.
take him to the vet and get his nails cut out ;]
Pet stores sell a heavy duty plastic protector that you can put over the corners of your furniture to protect it from being torn up by your cat.
You can also find different types of protectors on line. Here's one example:
http://www.pricegrabber.com/search_attri...
The alternative (and less humane) way is to have the cat declawed.
go to Petsmart or Wal-mart and get a scratching post, with a toy on top.. Get some cat-weed (cat nip) and sprinkle it around the base of the scratcing post, it will learn to use that, and be a "happy" cat.
Sprinkle a little garlic on the edges- the cat won't get near it...make (or buy) a scratching post..just use a couple blocks of wood and some old carpeting! If your cat goes outside maybe she'll use the tree. You can also sprinkle a little catnip in places you WANT her to scratch.
get soft claws!! They come in all colors and are easy to put on. They last about 8-9 weeks.
Thank you so much, raspberry, for speaking out against declawing.
Dear Asker,
Please see the links below to read about declawing and alternatives. I know that it's a lot of information, but please opt to be informed for the sake of your kitty. Thanks!
You people who are suggesting declawing should feel ashamed.
1) get a scratcher for the cat.
2) get a spray bottle and squirt. but mostly just say in a clear verbal command, "No."
3) understand that cats do this because it's their instincts.
by a scratching post. hive the cat some thing else to think about.
first never declaw just buy um a cat scratcher that will solve the problem so it won't hurt you or your cat
This is what worked for my cats:
First, provide the cat with appropriate alternative scratching surfaces - scratching posts that are tall (at least 24"), very sturdy (most cats won't use a post that wobbles), and covered in a rough-textured fabric or sisal rope (posts with soft, fluffy carpet covering don't usually appeal to cats). Provide both horizontal and vertical scratching options - for horizontal options, you can lay down a log with the bark still on, or get a cardboard scratcher from the store, or a good heavy sisal doormat. Place the cat's posts %26 scratchers near where the cat rests, plays, and near the litterbox. Put one close to the couch or elsewhere the cat may have been scratching.
Second, make the furniture less appealing to the cat - double-sided sticky tape is the most affordable and easy option, or clear contact paper taped with clear tape, with the sticky side of the contact paper facing out. You can also get plastic shields to put on areas where the cat may scratch. Try spraying Feliway spray (fromt the pet store) on the areas the cat is tempted to scratch - some scratching behavior is territorial, and if that is the case for your cat, the Feliway should help. There are also remote deterrent devices available to train the cat away from the furniture - the Ssscat spray device is supposed to be a good one: http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/na...
Remote devices are far more effective than trying to train a cat with a squirt gun - to be effective, a deterrent must occur 100% of the time a cat tries to scratch the furniture. Using a squirt gun only teaches the cat not to scratch the furniture *when you're there to catch him*!, and it may also cause him to become stressed and fearful of you.
Third, trim the cat's nails to reduce intentional damage, and prevent accidental damage - see this link for instructions:
http://www.catscratching.com/htmls/artic...
Fourth - you can use nail caps to cover the sharp claws, to prevent any damage to your furniture: http://www.softclaws.com
If you're uncertain about applying them or are not used to handling your cat's paws, you can call around to find a groomer who can apply them for you %26 show you how to do it. They usually last about 6 weeks per application, though the cat may initially pull them off sooner as it adjusts - just replace them as they fall off. If the cat removes them too quickly, you can put a dab of bitter apple taste deterrent (from the pet store) on them to discourage that.
If you reach a point where you trust your cat not to scratch, but you're still concerned about incidental damage, you can simply keep the sharp tips of the nails trimmed, and you may wish to use a couch cover to protect your couch from accidental damage, and cat hair %26 dander. I like having a couch cover because I can relax %26 allow the cats on the furniture, but if guests come over I can have an instantly hair-free couch by just whipping off the cover. The cover will also discourage relapses, because it makes the couch a less stable scratching surface.
See also these links for great scratching %26 training info:
http://www.catscratching.com
http://www.paws.org/cas/resources/fact_s... (go to the Scratching links)
http://www.littlebigcat.com/index.php?ac...
Providing your cat with lots of positive outlets for his or her energy will help to reduce destructive behaviors - see these pages for good info:
https://www.vmth.ucdavis.edu/home/beh/fe...
http://www.littlebigcat.com/index.php?ac...
http://www.vet.ohio-state.edu/747.htm...
Hope this helps!
How do you keep the neighbors cats out of my yard?
They always use the bathroom in my yard and I am tired of it.
Advice would be appreciated.
Answers:
We sell a product called Liquid Fence. They have it for cats and dogs. Its easy to use (smells funny when you spray it..lol) and it works wonderfully!! I used to have problems with neighbor cats pooping in my yard, but when i used Liquid Fence, they didnt come around again! The spray is made from all natural plant oils, so it's biodegradable and earth friendly. You can safely use it around your family and it won't harm animals or your plants. www.liquidfence.com
get a fence or a dog...
I am surprised. Most cats want sand to do their business, not grass.
I have heard of plants that may deter cats, or a low-level electric fenching placed very low to the ground.
However, in all reality, as a cat owner I can tell you, once a cat established territory, is curious about unexplored territory, or just plain sees something s/he wants to view closer there is no way to keep them from doing so consistently. If your neighbors let their cats out, the cats will go where they please. Your only option, it pains me to say, would be to see if there is a leash law in your area and if it applies to cats. You can then call the humane society or your local animal control and have the animals picked up and the owners ticketed.
By nature cats are territorial AND curious. In the case of a cat as a pet it is the owners responsibility to take care of this if they are bothering you that much.
Go to a pet supply store (Pet Supplies, Petco,
Chowhound). They all have products that repel
cats and dogs from desired areas.
Get a big dog!!
tell the neighbors. or shot the cats with a squirtgun they hate that
...with a shotgun
Use a hose. Spray the cat whenever it strays into
your yard. Cats do not enjoy a wet behind and after a few times they will wander someplace
else.
a shotgun
Pine cones all over the yard.
Yes its for real. They are repelled by pine.
Advice would be appreciated.
Answers:
We sell a product called Liquid Fence. They have it for cats and dogs. Its easy to use (smells funny when you spray it..lol) and it works wonderfully!! I used to have problems with neighbor cats pooping in my yard, but when i used Liquid Fence, they didnt come around again! The spray is made from all natural plant oils, so it's biodegradable and earth friendly. You can safely use it around your family and it won't harm animals or your plants. www.liquidfence.com
get a fence or a dog...
I am surprised. Most cats want sand to do their business, not grass.
I have heard of plants that may deter cats, or a low-level electric fenching placed very low to the ground.
However, in all reality, as a cat owner I can tell you, once a cat established territory, is curious about unexplored territory, or just plain sees something s/he wants to view closer there is no way to keep them from doing so consistently. If your neighbors let their cats out, the cats will go where they please. Your only option, it pains me to say, would be to see if there is a leash law in your area and if it applies to cats. You can then call the humane society or your local animal control and have the animals picked up and the owners ticketed.
By nature cats are territorial AND curious. In the case of a cat as a pet it is the owners responsibility to take care of this if they are bothering you that much.
Go to a pet supply store (Pet Supplies, Petco,
Chowhound). They all have products that repel
cats and dogs from desired areas.
Get a big dog!!
tell the neighbors. or shot the cats with a squirtgun they hate that
...with a shotgun
Use a hose. Spray the cat whenever it strays into
your yard. Cats do not enjoy a wet behind and after a few times they will wander someplace
else.
a shotgun
Pine cones all over the yard.
Yes its for real. They are repelled by pine.
How do you introduce a kitten to your cat?
i adopted an 8 month old cat in jan. she is about 11 months old now. and she was a bit of a scaredy cat, she finally came around and is really sweet. today i adopted a 9 week old kitten because it needed a home, my 11 month old cat is hissing and growling anytime she sees the kitten. i dont know what else to do? does anyone know how to make this work? give it time? or is there an alternative (and i will not place either of them back in the shelter so they can be euthanized i saved both from that, i will NOT subject them to being killed.)
Answers:
Keep them in separate parts of your home for a week or two. If you only have regular sized room seperate have one cat in that room part of the day and switch their places if possible. They need time to get used to one another especially their scents. Last kittens I had could not understand why the older cats didn't like them hissing and cuffing them :( I would coax the cats to the door seperating them with toys so they would smell one another %26 would put their food and water bowls there also. After a few weeks I opened the door and let them mix. The older cats still weren't happy but were content to hiss and stalk away in disgust without cuffing. Another trick that might help is to brush the cats one after another to mix scents.
You can say to your cat ->
Yum yum, look cat, one little juicy kitten. No big difference, taste like the mouse. Try it. Yum yum.
The cat will like it.
Ok ok, chill out, I was just having some fun. My real answer.
Don't keep them together so quick. Keep them seperately for maybe a month. One after the other, pat them and cuddle them. Then later they will be ok becuase both see that all are members of the family. Don't worry about that! :D
be patient they will get along keep litterboxes seperate and food dishes away from each other
Your answer is. TAKE YOUR TIME! Let them hiss and act pissy. It s okay! DO NOT SCOLD OR HIT EITHER CAT. A cat can hold a grudge and be in a bad mood for over two weeks.
Hitting or scolding them with just apply negative feelings to the situation. Let them be for a bit.
Keep things separate too. Each cat gets their own bowl of food, bowl of water and separate toys. They can share a plant of cat nip together. Just buy a small plant and let them have it. Most cat's have a catnip gene, so they will go for it quickly. Buy several plants and place the around the house. Cats will knock it over and make a mess, so be for warned.
A proper way to introduce a cats to one another is to Slowly introduce them. You take your new cat and put him or her into a room for several days. Allow your current cat to sniff them through a door. You can also take your new cat outside your front door and allow your current cat to sniff them through the screen door. When the sniffing has passed, take your new cat back to its room and have some quality time. Then have a play session with your current cat. Do this for several days and then allow them in the house together.
But, since your past that part. try this.
Take a damp cloth, (not wet but very dry damp) and rub one cats nose, ears or paws with it. Then rub the same cloth on you. This will transfer the scent onto you. Then do the same thing to the other cat and repeat the process. This will let the cats adjust to one another scent with out any contact with each other.
After you have done this for a day or two. Do the same process again, but this time apply the scented cloth to the other cat. Let them sniff the cloth first, then apply.
When my cat Abby came to leave with us, My other cat had been an only child. AND HE WAS NOT ABOUT TO SHARE MOMMY AT ALL! He would Hiss, bite me and spray everything he could find. MEN! After about a month he calmed down. He would lick her head and bite her toes when she was sleeping. He would also jump on her back and bite her neck. He was letting her know He was the boss and She better get used to it.
I would not him hurt her, but I allowed him to show her the order of things. They are cats and not human child, this is how it works for them.
After another month of this behavior, they became the best of friends. She would climb in His bed when he was sleeping. They would eat out of the same bowl and play all night long. They broke Many, Many, MANY things and had a great time doing it.
Have a friend bring the new cat in a carrier to your house. Set the carrier down and see what happens. If the cats try to attack each other through the carrier, the relationship is probably not going to work. If they seem to get along or are cautiously curious about each other, it will most likely work.
Keep your new cat confined to a single room for a few days. This allows the newcomer the opportunity to familiarize himself with the room, which will become his safe haven and personal territory. Provide a litterbox, food/water dishes, toys, bedding and a scratching/climbing post in his room. It is essential that your new cat feels secure in his new territory and has bonded with you before meeting your resident cat and adjusting to your entire house. Read more about your cats social structure and behavior.
Spend some time alone with your new cat so the two of you can bond. Begin teaching him the rules of your house by rewarding his good behavior. Praise him profusely for using his litter box and scratching his post.
When your new cat seems to be adjusting to you and his new room, you can start to familiarize the cats with each other. Start off by letting them get used to the smell of each other. Bring a piece of the resident cat's bedding into the new cat's room. Take some of the new cat's bedding and put it where your resident cat can smell it. Keep exchanging and rotating their beds or a towel that covers a favorite sleeping area. Let the cats sniff each other from under the door. Give both cats plenty of opportunity to adjust to each other's scent. If neither cat acts like it wants to break the door down and kill the other, then it is time to begin leaving the door open.
The new cat will eventually creep out and meet the resident cat. What usually happens is that they both freeze, arch their backs, hiss, spit and even growl at each other. Then they both flee to safety. Should they have any squabbles, the newcomer can retreat to his own room. The resident cat will be less likely to enter because the room bears the scent of the newcomer. The security and familiarity of the newcomer's own room will help rebuild his confidence to venture forth again.
Don't force your new cat and resident cat to meet. They will do so on their own when they are ready. Don't shower your new cat with attention in front of the resident cat until he is well accepted as part of the family. Don't be upset if the new cat remains in hiding for several days. This is the cat's normal way of dealing with stress and adapting to new situations.
Most of their first encounters may appear hostile to you, but it is best not to interfere. Let them work things out by themselves. They will understand and get to know each other much more quickly if you do not confuse the issues by taking sides or adding to the tension.
Absolutely give it more time. It is natural for your older cat to hiss and growl. After all a new kitten is coming into her territory and that scares her. The best thing to have done (and maybe you should still consider it) is to introduce them slowly. We recently adopted a kitten (we already have a one year old cat). We kept the kitten, Gypsy, locked in the bathroom the first two days. Jinx sat by the door and hissed and growled the entire time. But by letting her stay in the bathroom she got accustomed to us, and she and Jinx could smell each other under the bathroom door. After the two days we let her out into the rest of our apartment. Jinx still hissed and growled at her, which was fine since he was not hurting her. As long as no one is getting hurt let the two work out their own "pecking order." If one cat does get too aggressive lock the aggressor up for an hour in a room by itself. Once the hour is up reintroduce the two cats. Never leave the two alone until you are absolutely certain no one is going to get hurt. We kept Gypsy in the bathroom any time we were asleep or away from the house for the first week. Make sure to give your older cat lots of attention, even if she rebukes it at first. Jinx would not let my husband touch or pet him for two days!! But he came around. She and Jinx are great friends now. Give it time and things will work out!
Answers:
Keep them in separate parts of your home for a week or two. If you only have regular sized room seperate have one cat in that room part of the day and switch their places if possible. They need time to get used to one another especially their scents. Last kittens I had could not understand why the older cats didn't like them hissing and cuffing them :( I would coax the cats to the door seperating them with toys so they would smell one another %26 would put their food and water bowls there also. After a few weeks I opened the door and let them mix. The older cats still weren't happy but were content to hiss and stalk away in disgust without cuffing. Another trick that might help is to brush the cats one after another to mix scents.
You can say to your cat ->
Yum yum, look cat, one little juicy kitten. No big difference, taste like the mouse. Try it. Yum yum.
The cat will like it.
Ok ok, chill out, I was just having some fun. My real answer.
Don't keep them together so quick. Keep them seperately for maybe a month. One after the other, pat them and cuddle them. Then later they will be ok becuase both see that all are members of the family. Don't worry about that! :D
be patient they will get along keep litterboxes seperate and food dishes away from each other
Your answer is. TAKE YOUR TIME! Let them hiss and act pissy. It s okay! DO NOT SCOLD OR HIT EITHER CAT. A cat can hold a grudge and be in a bad mood for over two weeks.
Hitting or scolding them with just apply negative feelings to the situation. Let them be for a bit.
Keep things separate too. Each cat gets their own bowl of food, bowl of water and separate toys. They can share a plant of cat nip together. Just buy a small plant and let them have it. Most cat's have a catnip gene, so they will go for it quickly. Buy several plants and place the around the house. Cats will knock it over and make a mess, so be for warned.
A proper way to introduce a cats to one another is to Slowly introduce them. You take your new cat and put him or her into a room for several days. Allow your current cat to sniff them through a door. You can also take your new cat outside your front door and allow your current cat to sniff them through the screen door. When the sniffing has passed, take your new cat back to its room and have some quality time. Then have a play session with your current cat. Do this for several days and then allow them in the house together.
But, since your past that part. try this.
Take a damp cloth, (not wet but very dry damp) and rub one cats nose, ears or paws with it. Then rub the same cloth on you. This will transfer the scent onto you. Then do the same thing to the other cat and repeat the process. This will let the cats adjust to one another scent with out any contact with each other.
After you have done this for a day or two. Do the same process again, but this time apply the scented cloth to the other cat. Let them sniff the cloth first, then apply.
When my cat Abby came to leave with us, My other cat had been an only child. AND HE WAS NOT ABOUT TO SHARE MOMMY AT ALL! He would Hiss, bite me and spray everything he could find. MEN! After about a month he calmed down. He would lick her head and bite her toes when she was sleeping. He would also jump on her back and bite her neck. He was letting her know He was the boss and She better get used to it.
I would not him hurt her, but I allowed him to show her the order of things. They are cats and not human child, this is how it works for them.
After another month of this behavior, they became the best of friends. She would climb in His bed when he was sleeping. They would eat out of the same bowl and play all night long. They broke Many, Many, MANY things and had a great time doing it.
Have a friend bring the new cat in a carrier to your house. Set the carrier down and see what happens. If the cats try to attack each other through the carrier, the relationship is probably not going to work. If they seem to get along or are cautiously curious about each other, it will most likely work.
Keep your new cat confined to a single room for a few days. This allows the newcomer the opportunity to familiarize himself with the room, which will become his safe haven and personal territory. Provide a litterbox, food/water dishes, toys, bedding and a scratching/climbing post in his room. It is essential that your new cat feels secure in his new territory and has bonded with you before meeting your resident cat and adjusting to your entire house. Read more about your cats social structure and behavior.
Spend some time alone with your new cat so the two of you can bond. Begin teaching him the rules of your house by rewarding his good behavior. Praise him profusely for using his litter box and scratching his post.
When your new cat seems to be adjusting to you and his new room, you can start to familiarize the cats with each other. Start off by letting them get used to the smell of each other. Bring a piece of the resident cat's bedding into the new cat's room. Take some of the new cat's bedding and put it where your resident cat can smell it. Keep exchanging and rotating their beds or a towel that covers a favorite sleeping area. Let the cats sniff each other from under the door. Give both cats plenty of opportunity to adjust to each other's scent. If neither cat acts like it wants to break the door down and kill the other, then it is time to begin leaving the door open.
The new cat will eventually creep out and meet the resident cat. What usually happens is that they both freeze, arch their backs, hiss, spit and even growl at each other. Then they both flee to safety. Should they have any squabbles, the newcomer can retreat to his own room. The resident cat will be less likely to enter because the room bears the scent of the newcomer. The security and familiarity of the newcomer's own room will help rebuild his confidence to venture forth again.
Don't force your new cat and resident cat to meet. They will do so on their own when they are ready. Don't shower your new cat with attention in front of the resident cat until he is well accepted as part of the family. Don't be upset if the new cat remains in hiding for several days. This is the cat's normal way of dealing with stress and adapting to new situations.
Most of their first encounters may appear hostile to you, but it is best not to interfere. Let them work things out by themselves. They will understand and get to know each other much more quickly if you do not confuse the issues by taking sides or adding to the tension.
Absolutely give it more time. It is natural for your older cat to hiss and growl. After all a new kitten is coming into her territory and that scares her. The best thing to have done (and maybe you should still consider it) is to introduce them slowly. We recently adopted a kitten (we already have a one year old cat). We kept the kitten, Gypsy, locked in the bathroom the first two days. Jinx sat by the door and hissed and growled the entire time. But by letting her stay in the bathroom she got accustomed to us, and she and Jinx could smell each other under the bathroom door. After the two days we let her out into the rest of our apartment. Jinx still hissed and growled at her, which was fine since he was not hurting her. As long as no one is getting hurt let the two work out their own "pecking order." If one cat does get too aggressive lock the aggressor up for an hour in a room by itself. Once the hour is up reintroduce the two cats. Never leave the two alone until you are absolutely certain no one is going to get hurt. We kept Gypsy in the bathroom any time we were asleep or away from the house for the first week. Make sure to give your older cat lots of attention, even if she rebukes it at first. Jinx would not let my husband touch or pet him for two days!! But he came around. She and Jinx are great friends now. Give it time and things will work out!
How do you hold a cat for a cat show?
My boy Teddy is going to a cat show tomorrow, and I always see the professionals carrying their cats above their heads with their hands under their belly and armpits or something similar.
How do I do this? And is there a term for this type of carrying?
Answers:
i thought cats were left in cages at shows???
by the tail
I saw this at a cat show back in '98. Not sure if they use a different technique nowadays, but here goes:
Take both hands, extend your index finger and thumb as far away from each other as you can, and place under the cat's underarms and upper thighs with the thumbs facing you and the index fingers pointing away from you. Gently, stretch the cat and lift him/her straight up.
Hope this helps. Good luck!
How do I do this? And is there a term for this type of carrying?
Answers:
i thought cats were left in cages at shows???
by the tail
I saw this at a cat show back in '98. Not sure if they use a different technique nowadays, but here goes:
Take both hands, extend your index finger and thumb as far away from each other as you can, and place under the cat's underarms and upper thighs with the thumbs facing you and the index fingers pointing away from you. Gently, stretch the cat and lift him/her straight up.
Hope this helps. Good luck!
How do you get your cats to stop hissing at the new cat you just adopted?
We just adopted a third cat, a one year old neutered male, and our two other cats, a twelve year old neutered male, and a three year old spayed female won't stop hissing at him. How do we get them to like each other?
Answers:
You can't make them like each other. You have brought a new cat into their territory and that scares your older cats. Give them time and let them work out their own "pecking order." As long as the older cats are not hurting the new addition to your family everything is ok. If you feel that one cat is getting to aggressive separate the aggressor for an hour in a room by itself. After the hour is up let the cat back out and reintroduce them. When one cat plays nicely with the new cat give that cat a treat. It could take several weeks for your older cats to become used to the new cat. Give it time.
It will just take time. It's the way of the cat and how they decide order in their home. Watch them and make sure no one is getting hurt but they will work it out and the hissing will eventually stop. They may or may not become best buddies but they will eventually get along.
Time and paitience. :o) They're still figuring out what the "new guy" is doing there, and establishing a pecking order. Just make sure everybody gets treated fairly--i.e. give just as much attention to the "established" cats as the new guy. Otherwise, all you can do is wait...
Eventually even if they never become friends, they will learn to tolerate each other. They need time to get used to the new cat and his new smell.
Time. I never thought my cat would stop hissing at the new kitten I adopted. But in a week, they were fine!
it will take some time. we had the same issue with the two cats we got. the first time, my husband's cat was really bad with his hissing and all, that we had to keep the cat in a separate room and when we brought her out to meet him, we had to put her in a carrier and introduce them that way. the same thing happened with our youngest one. we brought him home and the other two cats smelled someone new right away, both of them were hissing and growling... we kept him in the basement and occassionally brought them together. Our oldest is now 10, the middle is 5 and the youngest will be 3 in october... they get along perfectly and have fun chasing each other. i couldn't tell you how long it took, but as you can see from the ages, we did give them lots of time before someone new was introduced.
time and patience. Eventuallly they will find a was to coexist with each other. Every situation is different, it can take a week, it may take weeks.
It will take a long time and patience. It could take up to a month for the cats to get used to each other. Believe me, I just adopted a cat while I already had a cat too. I've had my new cat for about a week and my other cat is already getting used to her, but that's just my cat.
Try keeping the new guy in a separate room (with litter box, food, and bedding) for a few days. Then try cracking the door so they can see and smell each other, but don't have access to each other. Slowly introduce them, but supervise their contact for awhile to prevent fights. If things start up again go back to step one and try again. Some cats don't like any changes in their environment and they need to show the new guy whose in charge. Patience is key.
Answers:
You can't make them like each other. You have brought a new cat into their territory and that scares your older cats. Give them time and let them work out their own "pecking order." As long as the older cats are not hurting the new addition to your family everything is ok. If you feel that one cat is getting to aggressive separate the aggressor for an hour in a room by itself. After the hour is up let the cat back out and reintroduce them. When one cat plays nicely with the new cat give that cat a treat. It could take several weeks for your older cats to become used to the new cat. Give it time.
It will just take time. It's the way of the cat and how they decide order in their home. Watch them and make sure no one is getting hurt but they will work it out and the hissing will eventually stop. They may or may not become best buddies but they will eventually get along.
Time and paitience. :o) They're still figuring out what the "new guy" is doing there, and establishing a pecking order. Just make sure everybody gets treated fairly--i.e. give just as much attention to the "established" cats as the new guy. Otherwise, all you can do is wait...
Eventually even if they never become friends, they will learn to tolerate each other. They need time to get used to the new cat and his new smell.
Time. I never thought my cat would stop hissing at the new kitten I adopted. But in a week, they were fine!
it will take some time. we had the same issue with the two cats we got. the first time, my husband's cat was really bad with his hissing and all, that we had to keep the cat in a separate room and when we brought her out to meet him, we had to put her in a carrier and introduce them that way. the same thing happened with our youngest one. we brought him home and the other two cats smelled someone new right away, both of them were hissing and growling... we kept him in the basement and occassionally brought them together. Our oldest is now 10, the middle is 5 and the youngest will be 3 in october... they get along perfectly and have fun chasing each other. i couldn't tell you how long it took, but as you can see from the ages, we did give them lots of time before someone new was introduced.
time and patience. Eventuallly they will find a was to coexist with each other. Every situation is different, it can take a week, it may take weeks.
It will take a long time and patience. It could take up to a month for the cats to get used to each other. Believe me, I just adopted a cat while I already had a cat too. I've had my new cat for about a week and my other cat is already getting used to her, but that's just my cat.
Try keeping the new guy in a separate room (with litter box, food, and bedding) for a few days. Then try cracking the door so they can see and smell each other, but don't have access to each other. Slowly introduce them, but supervise their contact for awhile to prevent fights. If things start up again go back to step one and try again. Some cats don't like any changes in their environment and they need to show the new guy whose in charge. Patience is key.
How do you get your cats bum and poop to stop smelling soooo bad?
Our cat is almost a year now and we love him very much.BUT when he was a kitten his bum smelled bad and he farted all the time. Our vet told us to change to a special cat food and we did. Now his poop just stinks. But it stinks up the whole house. We use good litter and even the arm and hammer cat box stuff. Help????
Answers:
Are you feeding wet food or dry? I would try another brand of cat food again. I use Iams adult dry and I don't have that problem anymore. They are giving free bags away...see this link: http://www.iamspromise.com/?source=yahoo...
Some brands of cat food use vegetable fillers. These foods help some cats, but do not taste as good to most cats. Soy and similar vegetable additives produce more gas, making your cat stink even worse.
Location of the cat box is also important. Many people keep the cat box in the corner of a small bathroom with poor air circulation. This concentrates the fumes and makes for a very stinky room. Consider a balcony, porch, or a room with a window that is kept open.
Choice of cat litter may be your best weapon. Use a dessicating cat litter, for dry feces smell less than wet. There are many odor absorbing litters on the market. Try them all, and choose the one you and your cat likes best. Consider additives, such as baking soda, mixed in the litter.
Also consider getting an automatic litter cleaner like LitterMaid. Then your litter box is always clean, which cuts down on odors. I love mine!
Change the food again.its not your cat litter
How about changing to a food that has no corn wheat soy byproducts dies artifical flacours and preservatives. I used to have a cat that has the farts and horrible poos all the time...then i learned about holistic diets. i mean the poo still smells bad...but 100% better than before...the smell stays in the litter box. i use merrick cat litter its a wheat alternative and its amazing!! eagle pack holistic select duck and oatmeal is what i feed mine. and their health is so much better. any holistic brand is better than what the vet or the grocery store provides for you. wellness, innova, back to basics...are all great...also decrease the amount of wet food you give her and make sure it has real meat as the first ingredietn@!!
;) Cat poop smells. Period. ;)
However, there are some things that you can do to help.
1. Is it possible to place your cat box in a room where you can leave the window cracked open? And with a shut door with a cat door installed.
2. Is it possible to clean your litter box a MINIMUM of once a day?
3. Is it possible to buy a special litter box? There are boxes that you can buy that have lids with little swinging doors. There are boxes that will literally clean the litter box every time your cat uses it?
4. Mix baking soda in with your kitty litter.
5. Air freshener, air freshener, air freshener.
I know that the above things work because we have three cats. ;)
digestive system is possibly bad
Cat bowel will stink regardless. But often times, wet cat food can lend itself to foul smelling breath and bowel. Have you tried a quality dry formula? It will make the stool firmer and also be better for your cat's teeth.
Cleaning the cat litter oftern may also minimize the smell. I know it's an undertaking, but that's the (small) price to pay for owning a less smelly cat.
Are you giving her can food? I give my cat dry cat food and that problem went away.
It all has to do with the food you feed.
Make sure you feed a quality food like Wellness, Nutro Natural Choice, or Holistic.
these foods have all natural ingredients which are easier to digest, plus it cuts back on the amount they eat, stinky poop, and shedding. I would recommend you try one of these foods, and you'll be able to see the results!
Answers:
Are you feeding wet food or dry? I would try another brand of cat food again. I use Iams adult dry and I don't have that problem anymore. They are giving free bags away...see this link: http://www.iamspromise.com/?source=yahoo...
Some brands of cat food use vegetable fillers. These foods help some cats, but do not taste as good to most cats. Soy and similar vegetable additives produce more gas, making your cat stink even worse.
Location of the cat box is also important. Many people keep the cat box in the corner of a small bathroom with poor air circulation. This concentrates the fumes and makes for a very stinky room. Consider a balcony, porch, or a room with a window that is kept open.
Choice of cat litter may be your best weapon. Use a dessicating cat litter, for dry feces smell less than wet. There are many odor absorbing litters on the market. Try them all, and choose the one you and your cat likes best. Consider additives, such as baking soda, mixed in the litter.
Also consider getting an automatic litter cleaner like LitterMaid. Then your litter box is always clean, which cuts down on odors. I love mine!
Change the food again.its not your cat litter
How about changing to a food that has no corn wheat soy byproducts dies artifical flacours and preservatives. I used to have a cat that has the farts and horrible poos all the time...then i learned about holistic diets. i mean the poo still smells bad...but 100% better than before...the smell stays in the litter box. i use merrick cat litter its a wheat alternative and its amazing!! eagle pack holistic select duck and oatmeal is what i feed mine. and their health is so much better. any holistic brand is better than what the vet or the grocery store provides for you. wellness, innova, back to basics...are all great...also decrease the amount of wet food you give her and make sure it has real meat as the first ingredietn@!!
;) Cat poop smells. Period. ;)
However, there are some things that you can do to help.
1. Is it possible to place your cat box in a room where you can leave the window cracked open? And with a shut door with a cat door installed.
2. Is it possible to clean your litter box a MINIMUM of once a day?
3. Is it possible to buy a special litter box? There are boxes that you can buy that have lids with little swinging doors. There are boxes that will literally clean the litter box every time your cat uses it?
4. Mix baking soda in with your kitty litter.
5. Air freshener, air freshener, air freshener.
I know that the above things work because we have three cats. ;)
digestive system is possibly bad
Cat bowel will stink regardless. But often times, wet cat food can lend itself to foul smelling breath and bowel. Have you tried a quality dry formula? It will make the stool firmer and also be better for your cat's teeth.
Cleaning the cat litter oftern may also minimize the smell. I know it's an undertaking, but that's the (small) price to pay for owning a less smelly cat.
Are you giving her can food? I give my cat dry cat food and that problem went away.
It all has to do with the food you feed.
Make sure you feed a quality food like Wellness, Nutro Natural Choice, or Holistic.
these foods have all natural ingredients which are easier to digest, plus it cuts back on the amount they eat, stinky poop, and shedding. I would recommend you try one of these foods, and you'll be able to see the results!
How do you get your cat to stop urinating on things?
I have had 3 female cats for over 4 years. Within the past month I have been finding cat urine on rugs, their cat bed beds, only my husbands clothes that are on the floor and not mine, inside their cat condos, etc. I bleach everything they pee on and they never touch it again. I don't know which one is doing it and we have never had them do this before. Why the sudden change in behavior? How can we make them stop?
Answers:
First, take them to the vet - take all of them if you aren't sure which cat has been urinating out of the box. Tell the vet what's going on, and ask for a urinalysis. If you had them to the vet recently, did he or she test their urine? If not, then they'll need to have that done. Urinary issues won't show up in an ordinary annual heath exam - a urinalysis is required to find infection or cyrstals. Urinary infections %26/or urinary crystals are the most common cause for cats to start going outside of their boxes. If one (or more) of them is ill, she's in pain and can't help going out of the box occasionally - behavioral remedies will be useless until she's treated for the urinary health problems. Cats are good at hiding illness and pain (it's a survival tactic), so often the only clue you'll get that your cat may have urinary health problems is out-of-the-box urination.
If they check out OK at the vet, it's possible that something about the litterbox itself, the litter, the box location, etc. is bothering them. See these links for suggestions:
http://www.catinfo.org/litterbox.htm...
http://www.vet.cornell.edu/fhc/brochures...
Those links don't mention it, but I highly recommend trying Cat Attract litter for litterbox issues - it's available at most pet supply stores. Also, if their litterboxes have been in use for some time, the plastic may have absorbed odors over time and be repelling the cats - try replacing them with new boxes.
Stress can cause inappropriate urination - cats can be stressed sometimes by things that we don't even notice, until we know what to look for. This article explains stress in cats %26 how to address it:
http://cats.about.com/cs/healthissues/a/...
A Feliway Comfort Zone diffuser can help a great deal with stress %26 litterbox issues: http://www.petcomfortzone.com/czcats.htm...
This link has extensive "out-of-the-box" resources: http://www.geocities.com/heartland/point...
This link has excellent urine spot locating and cleanup info: http://www.thecatsite.com/care/48/combat...
It's a 2-page article (the link to the second page at the bottom may be a little difficult to spot).
Hope this helps!
Keep them incertain areas of the house, reinforce litter box training. Perhaps, even a box per cat. It is a territory thing, they may be coming into heat/just feeling comprimised. Try and show them they are all equaly important and loved and work with litter box training. Bleaching isnt the best option go to the pet store and you can buy solutions which will prevent them from spraying somewhere - but you wont notice it.
ARE THEY IN HEAT? HAVING MULTIPLE CATS OFTEN CAUSES TERRITORY MARKINGS TO BE MORE FREQUENTLY! ALSO ARE THEY SPAYED? SPAYED CATS ARE LESS LIKELY TO SPRAY OUTSIDE THE LITTER BOX. ALSO, HOW CLEAN IS THEIR LITTER BOX? IF IT'S TOO NASTY, CATS WILL CHOOSE TO POTTY SOMEWHERE ELSE AND THEY DONT DISCRIMINTATE EVEN IF IT'S YOUR NEW LEATHER COUCH. SO JUST CHECK THOSE THINGS OUT...MAKE SURE THE LITTER IS CLEAN, MAKE SURE THAT YOU GET YOUR ANIMALS FIXED BECAUSE EVERY CAT AND DOG SHOULD BE! AND IF IT CONTINUES, THEN YOU MIGHT HAVE TOO MANY CATS FOR ONE AREA.
Fill up 2 litre bottles of water and close them than put it around where it is urinating
Cats are really picky when it comes to routine. Have you changed anything lately, like food, litter, moving things around? Also, they could have a medical problem like urinary infection or bladder problems. I would take them to the vet to have the girls looked at. Maybe the are just throwing a tantrum wanting some attention! Cats are so funny like that.
Good Luck
My mother had that problem she got the pets spayed?nuetered? and it went away. If I remeber correctly it is more or less hormonal thing.
Are you sure it's all 3 cats? Are the spayed? Normally female cats don't urinate all over the place like that. Unneutered males are a different story. It could be a territorial issue, could be that they dont' like their litter or it's dirty and it could be something more serious (but typically this would be if it's only one cat as it's unlikely all three are ill at once). I would highly recommend keeping them apart for a day or two to see which are the ones doing it. It's very possible one is ill and the others are just peeing in the spots the sick one already has. See if you can figure out which one might be ill or maybe even bring all three in for a vet check. It certainly can't hurt and he may be able to give you pointers on how to handle the situation. I know my neutered male will urinate in my clothes if his litter box is too dirty for his high standards. One of my others flat out refuses to use a litter box if another of my cats has used it so I am forced to keep 2 (one for each cat..this was no fun when I had 4..but it was effective). No matter what I think a vet visit is in order.
Once you're sure they're healthy, start by getting an extra litter box and being meticulous about scooping it out every time they use it. I would also consider isolating them until they get the point.
The hardest part is getting rid of the smell where they have already done it. Once it smells they will keep going back. Natures Miracle is a great product for removing pet odor but it has to be able to soak the entire area completely and be allowed to sit there wet for a period of time. I typically soak the area and then cover it with a damp towel for an hour before blotting it up.
I hope all your kitties are healthy and it's just an attitude problem..although the latter is probably a bit harder to fix!
Best of luck..let us know how it goes!
Answers:
First, take them to the vet - take all of them if you aren't sure which cat has been urinating out of the box. Tell the vet what's going on, and ask for a urinalysis. If you had them to the vet recently, did he or she test their urine? If not, then they'll need to have that done. Urinary issues won't show up in an ordinary annual heath exam - a urinalysis is required to find infection or cyrstals. Urinary infections %26/or urinary crystals are the most common cause for cats to start going outside of their boxes. If one (or more) of them is ill, she's in pain and can't help going out of the box occasionally - behavioral remedies will be useless until she's treated for the urinary health problems. Cats are good at hiding illness and pain (it's a survival tactic), so often the only clue you'll get that your cat may have urinary health problems is out-of-the-box urination.
If they check out OK at the vet, it's possible that something about the litterbox itself, the litter, the box location, etc. is bothering them. See these links for suggestions:
http://www.catinfo.org/litterbox.htm...
http://www.vet.cornell.edu/fhc/brochures...
Those links don't mention it, but I highly recommend trying Cat Attract litter for litterbox issues - it's available at most pet supply stores. Also, if their litterboxes have been in use for some time, the plastic may have absorbed odors over time and be repelling the cats - try replacing them with new boxes.
Stress can cause inappropriate urination - cats can be stressed sometimes by things that we don't even notice, until we know what to look for. This article explains stress in cats %26 how to address it:
http://cats.about.com/cs/healthissues/a/...
A Feliway Comfort Zone diffuser can help a great deal with stress %26 litterbox issues: http://www.petcomfortzone.com/czcats.htm...
This link has extensive "out-of-the-box" resources: http://www.geocities.com/heartland/point...
This link has excellent urine spot locating and cleanup info: http://www.thecatsite.com/care/48/combat...
It's a 2-page article (the link to the second page at the bottom may be a little difficult to spot).
Hope this helps!
Keep them incertain areas of the house, reinforce litter box training. Perhaps, even a box per cat. It is a territory thing, they may be coming into heat/just feeling comprimised. Try and show them they are all equaly important and loved and work with litter box training. Bleaching isnt the best option go to the pet store and you can buy solutions which will prevent them from spraying somewhere - but you wont notice it.
ARE THEY IN HEAT? HAVING MULTIPLE CATS OFTEN CAUSES TERRITORY MARKINGS TO BE MORE FREQUENTLY! ALSO ARE THEY SPAYED? SPAYED CATS ARE LESS LIKELY TO SPRAY OUTSIDE THE LITTER BOX. ALSO, HOW CLEAN IS THEIR LITTER BOX? IF IT'S TOO NASTY, CATS WILL CHOOSE TO POTTY SOMEWHERE ELSE AND THEY DONT DISCRIMINTATE EVEN IF IT'S YOUR NEW LEATHER COUCH. SO JUST CHECK THOSE THINGS OUT...MAKE SURE THE LITTER IS CLEAN, MAKE SURE THAT YOU GET YOUR ANIMALS FIXED BECAUSE EVERY CAT AND DOG SHOULD BE! AND IF IT CONTINUES, THEN YOU MIGHT HAVE TOO MANY CATS FOR ONE AREA.
Fill up 2 litre bottles of water and close them than put it around where it is urinating
Cats are really picky when it comes to routine. Have you changed anything lately, like food, litter, moving things around? Also, they could have a medical problem like urinary infection or bladder problems. I would take them to the vet to have the girls looked at. Maybe the are just throwing a tantrum wanting some attention! Cats are so funny like that.
Good Luck
My mother had that problem she got the pets spayed?nuetered? and it went away. If I remeber correctly it is more or less hormonal thing.
Are you sure it's all 3 cats? Are the spayed? Normally female cats don't urinate all over the place like that. Unneutered males are a different story. It could be a territorial issue, could be that they dont' like their litter or it's dirty and it could be something more serious (but typically this would be if it's only one cat as it's unlikely all three are ill at once). I would highly recommend keeping them apart for a day or two to see which are the ones doing it. It's very possible one is ill and the others are just peeing in the spots the sick one already has. See if you can figure out which one might be ill or maybe even bring all three in for a vet check. It certainly can't hurt and he may be able to give you pointers on how to handle the situation. I know my neutered male will urinate in my clothes if his litter box is too dirty for his high standards. One of my others flat out refuses to use a litter box if another of my cats has used it so I am forced to keep 2 (one for each cat..this was no fun when I had 4..but it was effective). No matter what I think a vet visit is in order.
Once you're sure they're healthy, start by getting an extra litter box and being meticulous about scooping it out every time they use it. I would also consider isolating them until they get the point.
The hardest part is getting rid of the smell where they have already done it. Once it smells they will keep going back. Natures Miracle is a great product for removing pet odor but it has to be able to soak the entire area completely and be allowed to sit there wet for a period of time. I typically soak the area and then cover it with a damp towel for an hour before blotting it up.
I hope all your kitties are healthy and it's just an attitude problem..although the latter is probably a bit harder to fix!
Best of luck..let us know how it goes!
How do you get the smell of a cat out of your couch?
We've had a cat for about 3 years now, and about 2 months ago we gotten a 2nd cat, that was bout 6 months old. Starting yesterday, we noticed a 'funny' smell, but couldnt pin-point it. This morning, i noticed that there was a wet spot on the couch (the spot that the older cat was lying on) and it smelled the same. Horrid and rancid. We've tried to think of wat it is, and have came up with the soulution that the older cat is 'spraying' and the other cat cant spray, he's been nuter'd. My problem is that the couch is Suede. how do i get the smell out of Suede without ruining the fabric?? please, any suggestions will help. its a brand-new couch. less than a month old, and now theres a horrid smell eminating from it... and we dont know wat to do.
Answers:
I had a cat that peed on everything and read that if you spray a vinegar and water solution on the area that, first it will break down the cause of the odor (white distilled vinegar) it will also prevent the pet from "visiting" it again. With suede you'd probably want to use 2/3 vinegar and 1/3 water... and use a soft brush to move the direction of the suede back into place if it's been disshevelled. hope this helps.
Buy an enzyme urine cleaner. Walmart sells pet stain and odor remover. You will have to get it very wet and leave it wet for the amount of time it says on the bottle. The enzymes eat the urine, and the smell.
First deep clean and make sure you have all the hair out of it, when I say deep clean i mean strong cleaners, then use fabreez..(it smells good, its strong, but not TOO strong)
I had a cat spray my sons baby stroller once. I tried EVERYTHING on the market. NOTHING would get rid of the smell...GOOD LUCK!
Take it to a professional cleaner, or call the department store where you got it from for advice. (Good Luck!) -Until then, use plenty of Febreeze!
Use Fabreze
Fabreeze just covers the smells up (and gives me allergic reactions). Use the Enzyme Cleaners (like Natures Miracle). We have a cat and a dog (used to have 2 dogs). Follow the directions for the cleaner to the "T".
The only thing that will work is an enzyme cleaner, you have to kill the bacteria that cause the smell. Things like fabreeze will only mask it.
Have a look at http://anti-icky-poo.net/anti-icky-poo_t... which gives good advice on cleaning up urine.
Answers:
I had a cat that peed on everything and read that if you spray a vinegar and water solution on the area that, first it will break down the cause of the odor (white distilled vinegar) it will also prevent the pet from "visiting" it again. With suede you'd probably want to use 2/3 vinegar and 1/3 water... and use a soft brush to move the direction of the suede back into place if it's been disshevelled. hope this helps.
Buy an enzyme urine cleaner. Walmart sells pet stain and odor remover. You will have to get it very wet and leave it wet for the amount of time it says on the bottle. The enzymes eat the urine, and the smell.
First deep clean and make sure you have all the hair out of it, when I say deep clean i mean strong cleaners, then use fabreez..(it smells good, its strong, but not TOO strong)
I had a cat spray my sons baby stroller once. I tried EVERYTHING on the market. NOTHING would get rid of the smell...GOOD LUCK!
Take it to a professional cleaner, or call the department store where you got it from for advice. (Good Luck!) -Until then, use plenty of Febreeze!
Use Fabreze
Fabreeze just covers the smells up (and gives me allergic reactions). Use the Enzyme Cleaners (like Natures Miracle). We have a cat and a dog (used to have 2 dogs). Follow the directions for the cleaner to the "T".
The only thing that will work is an enzyme cleaner, you have to kill the bacteria that cause the smell. Things like fabreeze will only mask it.
Have a look at http://anti-icky-poo.net/anti-icky-poo_t... which gives good advice on cleaning up urine.
How do you get the smell of cat pee out of a room, what can i get that will do the trick?
i have a male cat that got shut up in my kids room, he peed in the closet, and now i cant get the smell out. HELP!!!
Answers:
The best product I've found for this problem is called Urine-Off. You can buy it from vets or on-line. A lot of people swear by Nature's Miracle, but I don't think it cuts it. Urine-off seems to get the smell 100% gone, though it is a little more expensive. If it's really bad or soaked into a carpet, you may need a couple applications.
urin gone and it comes with a black light so u can tell if you got it all.and lots of febreeze
you need to have the closet washed out fully! bleach the closet also put a drop of fabric conditioner in the solution and scrub it all down, get some frebreeze and spray the whole room, you might have to do this a few time. also the carpet in the bedroom get some shake and vac and hover it all up. hopefully it should be smelling nice again.
laundry detergent that has amino acids in it to nutralise the urine.
Firstly clean the area with washing powder for clothes, do not use bleach or any other ammonia based product as this encourages the cat to urinate there again. Sprinkle bicarb of soda over the area and leave overnight then sweep up the next morning. If the urine has sunk into the bottom of the closet and it is wood then you may never completely get rid of the smell. If it has a flooring which you can lift up then clean underneath with powder and apply bicarb there as well. You may have to do this a couple of times. febreze is good and so is neutrodol although they only really mask the smell. To stop the cat from urinating in there again apply a few drops of a citrus scent. Cats hate this and it will make the closet smell lovely.
At a pet supply store you will find many products that make the claim they can get the odor and stain out. The best I've used is Simple Solution. Everything I've used from them works wonders, but I keep a gallon of the SS for pet stain removal on hand at all times. It will clean ANY stain out of carpet, works wonders on laundry, etc. The matter needs to be organic, but if it is you can literally watch the stain disappear. It will also take care of the odor. Spray it liberally on the area where kitty peed.
Simple Solution Cat Urine stain %26 odor remover works very well. Use a blacklight to find the spots, if they've dried. The spots will fluoresce under blacklight in the dark.
Answers:
The best product I've found for this problem is called Urine-Off. You can buy it from vets or on-line. A lot of people swear by Nature's Miracle, but I don't think it cuts it. Urine-off seems to get the smell 100% gone, though it is a little more expensive. If it's really bad or soaked into a carpet, you may need a couple applications.
urin gone and it comes with a black light so u can tell if you got it all.and lots of febreeze
you need to have the closet washed out fully! bleach the closet also put a drop of fabric conditioner in the solution and scrub it all down, get some frebreeze and spray the whole room, you might have to do this a few time. also the carpet in the bedroom get some shake and vac and hover it all up. hopefully it should be smelling nice again.
laundry detergent that has amino acids in it to nutralise the urine.
Firstly clean the area with washing powder for clothes, do not use bleach or any other ammonia based product as this encourages the cat to urinate there again. Sprinkle bicarb of soda over the area and leave overnight then sweep up the next morning. If the urine has sunk into the bottom of the closet and it is wood then you may never completely get rid of the smell. If it has a flooring which you can lift up then clean underneath with powder and apply bicarb there as well. You may have to do this a couple of times. febreze is good and so is neutrodol although they only really mask the smell. To stop the cat from urinating in there again apply a few drops of a citrus scent. Cats hate this and it will make the closet smell lovely.
At a pet supply store you will find many products that make the claim they can get the odor and stain out. The best I've used is Simple Solution. Everything I've used from them works wonders, but I keep a gallon of the SS for pet stain removal on hand at all times. It will clean ANY stain out of carpet, works wonders on laundry, etc. The matter needs to be organic, but if it is you can literally watch the stain disappear. It will also take care of the odor. Spray it liberally on the area where kitty peed.
Simple Solution Cat Urine stain %26 odor remover works very well. Use a blacklight to find the spots, if they've dried. The spots will fluoresce under blacklight in the dark.
How do you get the ammonia smell out of cat pee? Like in the litter box?
When my cat pees it smells like ammonia. I can't seem to get this smell out no matter what I do or how often I clean it. Any suggestions or home remedies?
Answers:
I have three female cats at home and use one litter box for all three. I do scoop it everyday and use Arm and Hammer cat litter. I have used other brands but they don鈥檛 do as good a job as Arm and Hammer. Also, once a week, after I scoop out the litter, I take the litter box and wash it with soap, rinse, dry and put the clean cat litter back inside. I keep the cat litter box in the half bath downstairs and it never smells bad in there. Is your cat a male or a female? If it's a male, maybe he is spraying your furniture or peeing in other places outside the litter box and that's what's causing the smell. If that鈥檚 the case, there are several reasons why a cat may pee outside the litter box. The best thing to do is to take the cat to the vet because he or she could have a urinary tract infection that can make urination painful. If the cat is associating the pain with the litter box, then he or she will try to avoid it and will pee elsewhere in the home.
fabreze..
bleach mixed with water.....about 1/3 bleach 2/3 water and scrub hard
No fabrese, baking soda. just sprinkle a little in. Or use that "arm and Hammer" kitty litter deoderizer. That stuff really works! If your cats urine really smells that bad, he may have a urinary tract or bladder infection. You may want to visit the vet. Try a different cat litter.
I think they have certain litter that is supposed to make you not smell anything. Or I think they have sprays and stuff at pet stores.
what i do to make the smell stop is baking soda, like the arm and hammer stuff and it kills the smell, and it helps alot!! trust me i do it with my cats litter box.
Try a scoopable litter - the pee will form into clumps, which you can scoop out of the box %26 dispose of twice daily. That should solve the odor problem. If the box itself smells of pee, it may have absorbed the odor %26 need to be replaced. When you buy a new box, before you fill it with fresh litter, spray it with this: http://www.stinkfreedirect.com/stink-fre...
See this page on how to maintain %26 spot-clean your litterbox to keep odor at bay:
http://www.catinfo.org/litterbox.htm...
After you spot-clean an area, spray it again with the stink-free spray.
Another option would be to try an ammonia-neutralizing litter such as Feline Pine: http://www.naturesearth.com/
The pellets turn to sawdust as they absorb urine, so be sure to change the box when it becomes more than 50% sawdust for maximum odor control. The only drawback to feline pine is that some cats dislike the texture %26 will not use it. If you want to try it, follow the mixing instructions on the bag carefully to maximize the chances that your cat will take to it.
Hope this helps!
Answers:
I have three female cats at home and use one litter box for all three. I do scoop it everyday and use Arm and Hammer cat litter. I have used other brands but they don鈥檛 do as good a job as Arm and Hammer. Also, once a week, after I scoop out the litter, I take the litter box and wash it with soap, rinse, dry and put the clean cat litter back inside. I keep the cat litter box in the half bath downstairs and it never smells bad in there. Is your cat a male or a female? If it's a male, maybe he is spraying your furniture or peeing in other places outside the litter box and that's what's causing the smell. If that鈥檚 the case, there are several reasons why a cat may pee outside the litter box. The best thing to do is to take the cat to the vet because he or she could have a urinary tract infection that can make urination painful. If the cat is associating the pain with the litter box, then he or she will try to avoid it and will pee elsewhere in the home.
fabreze..
bleach mixed with water.....about 1/3 bleach 2/3 water and scrub hard
No fabrese, baking soda. just sprinkle a little in. Or use that "arm and Hammer" kitty litter deoderizer. That stuff really works! If your cats urine really smells that bad, he may have a urinary tract or bladder infection. You may want to visit the vet. Try a different cat litter.
I think they have certain litter that is supposed to make you not smell anything. Or I think they have sprays and stuff at pet stores.
what i do to make the smell stop is baking soda, like the arm and hammer stuff and it kills the smell, and it helps alot!! trust me i do it with my cats litter box.
Try a scoopable litter - the pee will form into clumps, which you can scoop out of the box %26 dispose of twice daily. That should solve the odor problem. If the box itself smells of pee, it may have absorbed the odor %26 need to be replaced. When you buy a new box, before you fill it with fresh litter, spray it with this: http://www.stinkfreedirect.com/stink-fre...
See this page on how to maintain %26 spot-clean your litterbox to keep odor at bay:
http://www.catinfo.org/litterbox.htm...
After you spot-clean an area, spray it again with the stink-free spray.
Another option would be to try an ammonia-neutralizing litter such as Feline Pine: http://www.naturesearth.com/
The pellets turn to sawdust as they absorb urine, so be sure to change the box when it becomes more than 50% sawdust for maximum odor control. The only drawback to feline pine is that some cats dislike the texture %26 will not use it. If you want to try it, follow the mixing instructions on the bag carefully to maximize the chances that your cat will take to it.
Hope this helps!
How do you get tear stains out of white persian cats eyes ive tryed warm water on a damp cloth and used clear?
Answers:
They sell special wipes specifically for this purpose at Petsmart. I am not sure of the actual brand name (as I am at work and do not have access to the product). They do a fantastic job! I have a flame point Siamese who has always had runny eyes. I used to use warm cotton balls too. I found these wipes and thought I might as well try them. They clean the junk off his face and remove any tear stains. I believe it costs about $6.00 for one container. They are well worth the cost! Hope this helps!
I thought I would go ahead and provide you with the link to the wipes that I use.
http://www.petsmart.com/global/product_d...
you hold him down and put his drops in his eyes
http://www.angelsglow.com/angels-glow-su...
http://www.eyeenvy.com/
well there are certain medicines and drops you can buy to remove the stains, you just need to talk to a vet or a pet store near you.
Go to the link below and check OuT the eye cleaner, there are other places to get this type of product as well, way too many to list. Cheers~
p.s. while you ar there? look at the shampoos made for your pets specific needs( like a whitening shampoo) as any old shampoo will not work for a white Persian at all.
I agree with most of the other answers, they make cloths for tear stains that you can buy at a pet store.
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